Climbing Record for the Unnamed Peak 5300 m

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical.
2. Climbing area — the northernmost of the western spurs of the Vanch Range between Pravyy Dustiroz and Skryty glaciers.
3. The Unnamed Peak is located in the ridge northeast of the 5190 m peak. Estimated height is 5300 m. The route follows the eastern ridge, accessing it via the northern buttress from the Skryty Glacier.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1200 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 205 m, average steepness (excluding the horizontal ridge section) — 45°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 12, ice — 7. Number of climbing hours — 18.
7. Number of nights spent — 1, on the ridge.
8. Team leader — Yuri Vasilenko, 1st sports category.

1. ASCENT CLASS: High-altitude-technical.
2. ASCENT AREA: Mazarsky Ridge, Pamir.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Peak 5772 m (central summit) via the southwestern edge (first ascent).
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B, first ascent.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 2572 m, length of sections with 5B difficulty category — 1135 m, average steepness:
   • approach to the start of the southwestern edge — 35° (with a height difference of 270 m),
   • along the southwestern edge — 50° (with a height difference of 1930 m),
   • along the pre-summit ridge — 55° (with a height difference of 372 m),
   • entire ascent route (from the glacier to the summit) — 55°.

ASCENSION PASSPORT

1. Type of ascension — High-altitude and technical.
2. Area of ascension — Zaalayskiy Ridge, Pamir.
3. Peaks, their height, ascension route — Traverse of p. XIX Partsezd (5920 m) – p. Spartak (6183 m) – p. Razdelnaya (6148 m) – p. Lenin (7134 m), with ascent to the Southern peak of p. XIX Partsezd via the western ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3000 m, length of sections: 1st category of difficulty — none, 2nd category of difficulty — 325 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 4230 m, 4th category of difficulty — 5930 m, 5th category of difficulty — 450 m. Average steepness — 30°.
6. Number of pitons used: for creating artificial support points — none, for belaying — 18. Among them, rock pitons — 8, ice pitons — 10, screw pitons — none.
7. Number of walking hours — 54 hours, 6 days.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 5 nights, lying down.

Passport

1. Climbs — high-altitude
2. Climbing area — Eastern Pamir, Trans-Alay Range from the south
3. Climbing routes — via the western slopes of the unnamed peaks 6205 and 6042
4. Climbing characteristics: HEIGHT | 6205 | — 1095 m | | :------------ | :------: | | 6042 | — 932 m | | average steepness — 45° | |

v. Yuzhnaya, along the edge of the NW wall of Ganal'skiye Ostryaki Ridge, Kamchatka. Led by Bichenko A.N. Climbed on May 3, 1995, report compiled on May 25, 2000.

Passport

1. Category — rock.
2. Kamchatka, Ganal'skiye Ostryaki ridge.
3. v. Yuzhnaya, along the edge of the northwest wall.
4. Assumed 5B cat. diff., second ascent.
5. Height difference — 480 m, length — 695 m, length of sections with 5th and 6th cat. diff. — 247 m.
6. Pitons left on the route — 11 (including 3 bolted).

3A+1

First ascent on p. "Metallurgov Urala" (5150 m) via the left eastern counterforce. Peak "Metallurgov Urala" is located in the western part of the Trans-Alay Range in a spur extending towards Peak Sverdlova between the peaks:

• to the south - Avyk-Too (5285 m)
• to the north - p. N. I. Kuznetsova (5300 m). The ascent was made from an intermediate base camp (3800 m), located on an old moraine covered with grass, near a small lake, in the upper reaches of the Kok-Kyik gorge. The path from the base camp at 3800 m goes along the left (orographically) bank of the r. Kok-Kyik, along a grassy slope. After 40–50 minutes of walking, the path reaches the scree, and you need to turn right, bypassing the spurs of p. Kuznetsova. After an hour and a half to two hours of walking, you need to cross a ridge coming from the summit (5150) of p. Metallurgov Urala. It takes 20–30 minutes to overcome the ridge. Behind the ridge, a flat black lateral moraine begins (orographically left of l. Kok-Kyik), along which, after 1.5 hours, you reach the beginning of the route. Here is the first overnight stay on the moraine at an altitude of 4500 m. The travel time from the intermediate base camp (3800 m) to 4500 m is 3–4 hours. The travel time from the first overnight stay to the beginning of the route is 30–40 minutes along the Kok-Kyik glacier. The exit to the left counterforce is via rocks of medium difficulty. Further advancement is possible only along the counterforce; after 3–4 ropes, an 8–10 m wall at an angle of 70–80° is encountered, requiring careful piton protection.

Recreational Climbing in Achik-Tash. Peak Musa Dzhalil via the North Face.

Alpinism, Report, Pamir By khomenyuk, Today at 15:07 On August 31, 2017, we successfully completed a first ascent via the north face of Peak Musa Dzhalil (4800 m, according to the classifier). From the Ak-Sai Travel base camp in Achik-Tash, we reached the summit and returned in ten and a half hours. We thoroughly enjoyed the route. In anticipation of the new season, I'm sharing a detailed description of the route.

Ascent Details

1. Pamir, Trans-Alay Range, Achik-Tash valley, category 4.4 according to the 2017 classification table.
2. Peak Musa Dzhalil, 4800 m, via the North face.
3. Proposed category — 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice and snow.

The summit 4570 m is located in the upper reaches of the Kок-Kыик river valley, in the northern ridge, branching off from the peak 5680 m (the latter is located in the main Trans-Alay range). From the "3800" camp, the route initially goes straight to the ridge along the left (orographic) grassy slope. After 20–25 minutes of walking, it is necessary to:

• cross the Kок-Kыик river at the point where a stream, flowing from the slopes of the peak 4570 m, flows into it, and
• ascend along this stream. Another 35–40 minutes of walking - the route approaches the foot of the peak. The height at this point is 4000 m.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE HEIGHT OF 4670 M VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE (FIRST ASCENT) 98 The 4670 m peak is located on the northeastern ridge of Pik Sverdlova. Pik Sverdlova is situated east of the Ters-Agar pass in the ridge branching off the main Zaalaysky range to the north. Approach to the route:

• From the settlement Daraut-Kurgan
• In a southeastern direction
• At a distance of 35–40 km to the Tane-Su river gorge

109. Songuty via the East Face, cat. 4B (Durnov, 1950)

From the Volga River overnight bivouac area, head towards the central couloir that leads to routes 5A and 5Б. (“Attention!” The couloir is not visible from the overnight bivouac area, and for visual reconnaissance, one needs to move to the left part of the upper plateau of Uilpatinsky bottom), move along the right part of the couloir to the rock island, from which turn left onto a ledge leading to a counterfort. 10 m up the несложным ledges of the counterfort to a snowy ridge 10–15 m long. From it, turn left along the ledges and walls under the black streaks forming a zigzag, clearly visible from below, to the next counterfort of the central ridge. Move up the rocks of the counterfort to a snowy saddle, from which a snowy couloir goes left and down. After the saddle, a short wall leads to a large ledge crossing the East Face of Songuty. Along the ledge 150–200 m to the right to a counterfort leading to the 10th tower. Move along the rocks on the left side of the counterfort; in the upper part of the rocks, a 20-meter internal corner leads to a snowy slope (20–30 m), approaching the 10th tower. One can avoid going to the tower and instead move right along a grassy section to the saddle between the 10th tower and the summit. On the saddle, there is a platform for a tent. From the saddle to the summit, it's 80–100 m along the ridge of cat. II–III complexity, with overcoming the “pog” — a smooth 5-meter rock ascent and ridge. On the “nose” of the “pog,” a piton is hammered for passage and belay.