Climbing Record for the Unnamed Peak 5300 m

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical.
2. Climbing area — the northernmost of the western spurs of the Vanch Range between Pravyy Dustiroz and Skryty glaciers.
3. The Unnamed Peak is located in the ridge northeast of the 5190 m peak. Estimated height is 5300 m. The route follows the eastern ridge, accessing it via the northern buttress from the Skryty Glacier.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1200 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 205 m, average steepness (excluding the horizontal ridge section) — 45°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 12, ice — 7.

Number of climbing hours — 18.

8. Number of nights spent — 1, on the ridge.
9. Team leader — Yuri Vasilenko, 1st sports category.

Team members:

• Pyotr Denisenko — 1st sports category
• Igor Maltsev — 1st sports category

Observation group:

• A.I. Klokova — Master of Sports
• E.T. Nasonova — Master of Sports

10. Coach — Agnesa Klokova — Master of Sports.

11. Departure to the route — July 18, 1979, return to base camp — July 19, 1979.

The profile of the eastern and pre-summit ridge is visible.

1. Selection of the Climbing Object and Route

The 5300 m peak is visible from the base camp of the Ukrainian Sports Committee's 1979 expedition, located on the northern shore of the lake between the Skryty and Abdukagor glaciers (see scheme 1). It is formed by distinctive ridges running from the base to the summit (see photo 1). The peak is beautiful. To our knowledge, it had not been climbed before. Therefore, it was decided to attempt to climb it.

Initially, a route up one of the eastern ridges was considered (the western ridges are overhung by glaciers and cornices). However, observations showed that the eastern ridges are prone to rockfall, making these routes hazardous.

A route accessing the ridge west of the summit also appears to be rockfall-prone.

Therefore, a safe and relatively simple route was chosen, following the eastern ridge and accessing it via the northern buttress from the Skryty Glacier.

Descent was planned via the ascent route. A route accessing the ridge west of the summit also appears to be rockfall-prone.

II. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of the Unnamed Peak 5300 m

The Unnamed Peak, with an estimated height of 5300–5400 m, is located in a spur of the Vanch Range between the Pravyy Dustiroz and Skryty glaciers, which flows into the Abdukagor Glacier. On this spur, west of the peak, lies the 5190 m peak.

From the north, four routes can be considered to the 5300 m peak:

1. The most logical and challenging route follows the third ridge from the left. Elevation gain is approximately 1200 m. Estimated difficulty is 5B.
2. The route follows the second ridge from the left, accessing the pre-summit ridge — estimated difficulty is 5A.
3. The route follows the western ridge, accessing it via a broad inclined ledge — estimated difficulty is 4A.
4. The route follows the eastern ridge, accessing it via the northern buttress — estimated difficulty is 4B.

As mentioned earlier, the first three routes are rockfall-prone. The fourth route was chosen.

III. Climbing Conditions in the Area of the Unnamed Peak 5300 m

The Abdukagor Glacier area has significant glaciation, so climbs are undertaken in crampons and down jackets, creating unfavorable conditions for technically complex sections of the route.

The approach from the base camp by the lake between the Skryty and Abdukagor glaciers to the start of the route takes 2–2.5 hours, making the area around the 5300 m peak suitable for climbing.

IV. Tactical Climbing Plan

Given the route's considerable length, the climb was planned over three days with overnight stops on the route and on the ridge.

In the presence of significant snowfall, and considering early daylight, departures onto the route on both the first and second days need to be planned early to make progress on firm snow.

V. Description of the Approach to the Start of the Climbing Route to the Unnamed Peak 5300 m

From the base camp, located by the lake at the confluence of the Skryty and Abdukagor glaciers, the path lies through the right moraine pocket of the Skryty Glacier, then along the right part of the medial moraine of this glacier to its upper reaches. Here, the glacier is crossed to the southwest under the base of the northern buttress.

Suitable bivouac sites:

• Upper part of the medial moraine
• Scree ledge under the buttress

VI. Technical Description of the Climbing Route to the Unnamed Peak 5300 m via the Eastern Ridge from the Skryty Glacier

The climbing route can naturally be divided into three parts:

1. The northern buttress of the eastern ridge of the 5300 m peak — granite rocks, covered with hanging glaciers and snow in the upper part, and snow in the lower part.
2. The horizontal part of the Eastern Ridge with numerous "gendarmerie" peaks, the northern part of the ridge is covered with a hanging glacier and cornices.
3. The pre-summit ridge — heavily fragmented shale rocks.

Access to the northern buttress is from the Skryty Glacier on the left. Initially, a scree ledge, then in the lowest part, 60 m of moderately difficult rock climbing with good holds.

Further along the ridge (rocks, snow) to a "gendarmerie" peak, which is tackled "en face" up a 15 m wall (pitons used for protection, "shvelлеры" type).

Then 60 m of rock ridge — straightforward climbing, alternating protection.

Beyond this, the ridge is covered in ice and snow. Cornices are present on the right. To the first crevasse, there are 3 steep snow-ice slopes of 60–70°.

The first crevasse is traversed on the right, 3–4 m (further on, a cornice). Pitons used for protection. On the second crevasse, 2 snow-ice slopes of 70° steepness.

The second crevasse is traversed on the left. Pitons used for protection. Further on, snow terrain with 5 slopes of 50–60° steepness leading to the ridge. Here, suitable bivouac sites.

2. From the bivouac sites, a steep rock ridge (40 m) leads on, then it is bypassed via a snow slope (60 m, 60°). Further on, 30 m traverse left across rocks and exit onto a small peak, clearly visible from below.

Beyond this, the ridge is composed of fragmented rocks with three "gendarmerie" peaks, which are bypassed on the right via ice and snow (be cautious of cornices on the right).

3. The lower part of the pre-summit ridge is bypassed via snow and ice — two slopes of 60–70° steepness.

The ridge consists of heavily fragmented shale rocks of moderate difficulty. Two walls, 8 and 10 m, are tackled "en face". Climbing is challenging, pitons used for protection.

On the route, 7 ice screws were used and 12 rock pitons were placed. Crampons were used on all snow-ice slopes. Descent was via the ascent route.

Table of Main Route Characteristics for the Ascent of the Unnamed Peak 5300 m

Departure time — 6:00. Time of stopping for bivouac — 17:00. Number of climbing hours — 9. Overnight on the ridge on fine scree. A good platform for the tent was prepared.

Departure onto the route — 6:20, reaching the summit — 9:30, return to bivouac — 12:00, return to base camp — 18:00. Number of climbing hours — 9.

Total climbing hours — 18. Pitons used: rock — 12, ice — 7.