109. Songuty via the East Face, cat. 4B (Durnov, 1950)

From the Volga River overnight bivouac area, head towards the central couloir that leads to routes 5A and 5Б.

(“Attention!” The couloir is not visible from the overnight bivouac area, and for visual reconnaissance, one needs to move to the left part of the upper plateau of Uilpatinsky bottom), move along the right part of the couloir to the rock island, from which turn left onto a ledge leading to a counterfort.

10 m up the несложным ledges of the counterfort to a snowy ridge 10–15 m long. From it, turn left along the ledges and walls under the black streaks forming a zigzag, clearly visible from below, to the next counterfort of the central ridge.

Move up the rocks of the counterfort to a snowy saddle, from which a snowy couloir goes left and down.

After the saddle, a short wall leads to a large ledge crossing the East Face of Songuty. Along the ledge 150–200 m to the right to a counterfort leading to the 10th tower.

Move along the rocks on the left side of the counterfort; in the upper part of the rocks, a 20-meter internal corner leads to a snowy slope (20–30 m), approaching the 10th tower.

One can avoid going to the tower and instead move right along a grassy section to the saddle between the 10th tower and the summit.

On the saddle, there is a platform for a tent. From the saddle to the summit, it's 80–100 m along the ridge of cat. II–III complexity, with overcoming the “pog” — a smooth 5-meter rock ascent and ridge.

On the “nose” of the “pog,” a piton is hammered for passage and belay.

Climbing equipment: ITO.

Descent via route 4А.

Key landmarks of the route (see photo):

• Central couloir and the rock island within it.
• Ledge along which the first traverse goes left — the third ledge, counting from top to bottom from the “white wall.”
• “Black zigzag” under which the second traverse goes left.
• Large ledge leading to the 10th tower.

Start the ascent no later than 4:00, as after sunrise, rocks and ice start falling through the couloir.

Estimated time to complete the route (ascent) in good weather: 1–10 hours.

Alternative option to reach the counterfort is via the left couloir (route 110).

Possible overnight bivouac locations:

• on snowy saddles of the counterfort
• on the “pelena” between the towers
• below the 10th tower by the frozen lake
• below the 10th “zhendarmer”
• at the Vorobyevsky overnight bivouac area