The summit 4570 m is located in the upper reaches of the Kок-Kыик river valley, in the northern ridge, branching off from the peak 5680 m (the latter is located in the main Trans-Alay range). From the "3800" camp, the route initially goes straight to the ridge along the left (orographic) grassy slope. After 20–25 minutes of walking, it is necessary to:

• cross the Kок-Kыик river at the point where a stream, flowing from the slopes of the peak 4570 m, flows into it, and
• ascend along this stream. Another 35–40 minutes of walking - the route approaches the foot of the peak. The height at this point is 4000 m.

520025 ­мкб ­реб­пы

The ascent to p. Blizhniy was one of the training ascents for groups working as part of the High Pamir Expedition of Leningrad State University in 1968. The route along the eastern ridge is a combined route:

• about 100 m of broken rocks with a steepness of 45–50°;
• an ice slope of 80 m with a steepness of about 45°, covered with loose snow. From the base camp (see the description of the route to p. Volodarskogo) along the main slope to the river flowing from the plateau below p. V. Slutskaya. Crossing by stones is possible only in the morning hours. Further along the main slope in the direction of the eastern ridge of p. Blizhniy. The approach to the start of the route takes 3 hours. The main ridge, which then turns into the eastern ridge, leads to steep rocks, which are bypassed on the right. About 2.5 ropes of medium-difficulty rocks, with good ledges for belaying everywhere. The rocky ridge turns into a sharp ice ridge, but movement along it is hazardous due to snow cornices. Further:

The trail initially goes along the right (orographically) side of the Suu-Chiktyn River. After 30 minutes, you need to descend down to the river, cross two branches of the Jav-Jjikga tributary fording. Then, continue along the trail on the right (orographically) bank of the Suu-Chiktyn River. The gorge gradually turns to the right and takes a south-north direction. At the bend of the river, it is necessary to ford it to the left (orographically) side and proceed towards the visible terminal moraine of the Suu-Chiktyn glacier. From the crossing point, the summit is visible. The path from the crossing point to the moraine takes 30-40 minutes. Advantages of crossing the terminal moraine:

184. Shkhara South via the Eastern spur of the South Ridge (a combined route by A. Gvalia, category IIIA, Figs. 18, 21). The path from the "Ailama" alpine camp (a group of 4-12 people) to the "Inguri bivouac" is described in route 175. From the "Inguri bivouac", descend down a grassy slope to the Inguri River. Cross the river by fording and ascend traversing to the right grassy slopes to the right-bank moraine of the Shkhara Glacier. Up the moraine, then descend to the right side of the Shkhara Glacier. Up along the glacier plateau, alongside the steep southern slopes of the Shkhara massif; behind the icefall and the broken part of the Shkhara Glacier, turn left and across the plateau (crevasses) reach the talus under the Eastern edge of the Shkhara South summit. Up a snowy slope, left of the moraine, to reach the South branch of the Shkhara Glacier, descending from the South Ridge of Shkhara South between its Eastern edge and Eastern spur. Up the glacier - left to the areas on the Eastern spur of the South Ridge. Bivouac on the areas. From the "Ailama" alpine camp: 8-10 hours. From the areas, ascend via talus and easy rocks of the wide Eastern spur of the South Ridge of Shkhara South.

• Bypass the first pillar on the left via a snowy talus,
• overcome the second pillar head-on. Further, along the easy rocky Eastern spur, to the third pillar; bypass it on the right via a ledge and ascend a snowy slope to the Eastern spur. Along the snowy spur, having passed the fourth pillar head-on and bypassed the fifth pillar on the left via the slope, reach the South Ridge of Shkhara South. Here, turn right and ascend along the easy, long, gently sloping, snowy, rocky South Ridge. Then:
• 120-150 m up along the gently sloping, snowy South Ridge
• 60-80 m along a steep, snowy ascent (avalanches, piton belay) to the pre-summit rocks

Artkol 8. Artkol via the South Ridge (V. Grecheninov's and E. Grecheninova's route. Category 1B, August 14, 1938) The path from Verkhniy Baksan settlement to Zugulla is described in route 4. Having crossed Zugulla ford to the left bank, ascend along the trail on the right bank of the Kyrtyk river up to the confluence of a small Gicheartkol river coming in from the right. Cross Gicheartkol ford and ascend along the grassy slope of its left bank up to the upper abandoned cattle-breeding farm and further along the left bank up to the talus descending from the summit of Artkol. The initial bivouac is at the talus. 7-8 hours from Verkhniy Baksan settlement. From here:

• turn right and ascend along the large talus to the rocky towers of the South Ridge of Artkol summit;
• further ascent along simple, heavily cut and ruined rocks of the South Ridge with numerous gendarmes;
  • bypass the 1st gendarme on the left along taluses and simple ruined rocks;
  • overcome the 2nd one head-on along the ridge;
  • bypass the 3rd one along taluses on the left and then along a simple rocky ridge reach the 4th gendarme;

Guidelines for crossings. Description of the Suarom Zayau-naya route via Zayau ridge (30 km). From the village of Verkhnyaya Bassom, follow the sign to Inotoninini Toli Sorta and go upstream to Jeje-noto Iieta. From Iieta, follow the trail that goes left into the Leirotoi gorge. Initially, the pedestrian trail follows the right road and crosses via a bridge. Later, the trail crosses to the left bank, and then back to the right bank, and follows it to the Leirotoi bivouac. Here, along the lake shore, there is a dacha, and further on, the lake shore with picturesque views - "иуауеаи­и" on the right bank of the Leirotoi river near the Golden Sayan. From the village of Verkhnyaya Bassom, it takes 5-6 hours. From the original lake shore, follow the gentle slope to the left of the remnant hill. Then, follow the lakeshore to the Zayau ridge of the Suarte massif. Along the lake's left shore, make a passage to the Sayan, and cross to the Sayan, then ascend to the Zayau ridge (Buosevaye strakho bereg). On the upper side, straight and along the axis of the ridge, lives the same archivarius. Immediately transform the roto into a trail leading to the ascent: Nayert

Route Description

to the peak Bezimannyy (3620 m) from the West via the southern ridge (route is combined, 1B category of complexity) Tebi glacier. Conditional name “Peak of the 50th anniversary of Rostselmash”

Chirch Ridge. Peak 3620

In the long northern ridge-spur (Chirch ridge) of the Gebi-Tau peak, dividing the valleys of the Khares River to the west and Karaugom to the east, near the Gebi-Tau peak to the south, in the upper reaches of the Gebi glacier to the west and Bartuy to the east, there is an unnamed rocky peak with a height of 3620 m. In July 1979, a team of climbers from the “Planet” club of the Rostselmash factory ascended to this peak from the Gebi glacier via the southern ridge. On the summit:

• a memorial obelisk was erected in honor of the 50th anniversary of the award-bearing Rostselmash factory;
• the peak was named “Bezimannaya”. The route is approximately 1B category of complexity.