DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE HEIGHT OF 4670 M VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE (FIRST ASCENT) 98

The 4670 m peak is located on the northeastern ridge of Pik Sverdlova. Pik Sverdlova is situated east of the Ters-Agar pass in the ridge branching off the main Zaalaysky range to the north.

Approach to the route:

• From the settlement Daraut-Kurgan
• In a southeastern direction
• At a distance of 35–40 km to the Tane-Su river gorge
• At the beginning of the gorge, at an altitude of 3100 m, the base camp of the Sverdlovsk anniversary expedition was set up

The base camp was established in June or July 1960.

Departure from the "3100" m base camp of the Sverdlovsk expedition in the second half of the day. The movement initially follows a noticeable trail to the southwest from the camp. After 20–30 minutes, there is an ascent to the saddle between the 3960 m peak (to the left of the direction of travel) and the table-like massif, at the foot of which the base camp was located.

From the saddle, there is a descent into a dry riverbed, and after crossing it, an ascent along grassy slopes in the form of successive rises in a southwesterly direction. The 3930 m and 4150 m peaks remain to the left of the direction of travel. After three hours of movement, the green slopes give way to a steep snowy ascent branching off the northern slopes of the 4150 m peak. Having crested the ascent, we enter a marshy clearing and cross streams. The place is suitable for an overnight stay.

From the base camp to the overnight stay: 3.5–4 hours. Altitude: 4000 m.

From the overnight stay location, the ascent route is visible up to the ridge and partially along the ridge. The route is snowy. In the lower part, there are talus and rock outcrops. The ascent to the ridge leading to the peak is made by moving from the overnight stay location to the left along the direction of travel, with an ascent to individual snowy terraces (direction of movement — southeast).