Ascent Log.

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Trans-Ili Alatau, Tian Shan.
3. Ascent route — Peak Amangeldy, 4100 m from the north.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A.
5. Ascent characteristics:
   1. Elevation gain — 500 m.
   2. Average steepness — 54°.
   3. Length of complex section — 155 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 25 pcs.

Route Description

From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpingrad. The traverse begins with peak Amangeldy 1B from the West (see description of Amangeldy 1B from the West). After the summit, descend in the eastern direction towards Pionerisky Pass via the 2B category route. From Pionerisky Pass, ascend to peak Pioner via the 1B category route. Then move south towards the summit of Uchitel (see description of the traverse Uchitel - Pioner 3A). From the summit of Uchitel, descend east via the 2A category route to peak Uchitel until the Heroes of Panfilov Pass. Ascend to peak Heroes of Panfilov via the 2B category route along the western ridge (see description). Descend towards Mametova Pass. From Mametova Pass, follow the route to Manshuk Mametova via the northern ridge 3B category until the summit (see description). Descend via the 2A category route from the M. Mametova glacier. Then descend to Alpengrad. Completed by a group led by T. Lebedev in 1999.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 6-8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Alpengrad.

Peak Asker, "Avalon" (100 m, 70′, 6a+), K. Belotserkovsky, 2010

R0–R1. Twenty meters up easy rocks to a large rock spall. Station on a juniper bush. R1–R2. Up and right to a large slab with two parallel cracks. Climb the first one. The crack gets narrower in the upper part, but the slope is gentle, so in dry weather it won't be a problem. Then, using the internal dihedral and belaying on its left wall, get over a small ledge (the crux of the route). Station on three pitons, two of which are half-driven, three meters higher. R2–R4. Up and right along the edge. The first two protection points are juniper bushes. Then up along the edge to a ledge. A logical option was to go slightly left to a ledge that

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock.
2. Ascent area, ridge: North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Geroyev Panfilovtsev, 4020 m, via the western ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 165 m; route length — 480 m; sections 5–6 cat. diff. are absent; average steepness — 20°.
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 3, ice and bolt pitons were not used.
7. Number of travel hours: 4 h 40 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: there are no overnight stays on the route.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualifications:

Climbing Area Map

Profile, view from the southwest. Profile, view from the south. Profile, view from the southwest. TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE Note: Pitons used to create artificial holds are indicated by a fraction. From the Talgar alp camp, follow the trail up the Sredny Talgar River to the Severny Talgar glacier, then up the Severny Talgar glacier. Overnight at the moraine at the foot of the IyinTau slope.

and the inner corner, and again along the middle rocks to a sloping platform, in the upper corner of which there is a cairn with a note. Descent to the snowy ridge, leaving three pre-summit gendarmes on the right side. Bypassing them along steep snowslopes, in three steps, leading to the base of the summit tower. Along easy rocks and large stones, exit to a small saddle between the pre-summit gendarme and the summit tower. From here, ascent to the summit tower, 50–60 m high, and exit (with careful belay) to a rocky platform with "live" stones under an overhanging wall with an inner corner. Exit to the tower through a cleft from the platform under the inner corner straight up. The rocks are difficult. Belay through a ledge. A few meters from the platform, there is a wide horizontal crack:

• Hammer in a piton for belay and foothold.
• Above, there is a small inclined shelf, along which one can enter the cleft.
• Further, on friction, exit to the summit ridge and along it, after a few meters, to the summit. Descent along the scree to the Konstituciya Glacier. From the initial bivouac, the entire ascent takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants: 6–8 people. Not recommended for mass ascents.

Р­Я rock outcrops (150 m). At the very beginning, there is a complex cairn. This is the summit. Then you need to turn west and approach the rocks that give rise to the western ridge. Descend 100 m down the southern counterfort. Here, on a rocky site, there is a convenient overnight stay. From the foot of the ridge to the overnight stay, it takes 8 hours of walking. From the overnight stay, cross the southern slope of the western ridge, staying on the right side on the ridge, descend to the 1st gendarme. It is bypassed on the right by snow. Then there are the rocks of the western ridge. The rocks are strong.

• The second gendarme is taken along the knife ridge.
• The 3rd gendarme - Tower - is taken head-on along the line of rocks and snow (or ice). Crampons may

Ascent to Karaulchitaus via the Northwest Ridge, category 4B (Fig. 33). From the Talgar alpine camp to the initial bivouac at Zelyonaya Polyana — 2–3 hours walking. Approach:

• From Zelyonaya Polyana, approach the western ridge and enter the left couloir.
• Ascend along the ridge for 25–30 meters.
• Then begin ascending left along the ridge for 40–50 meters. The rocks are average. Insurance is via pitons and ledges. Further, the ridge stretches for 150–200 meters. The rocks are of average difficulty. Five not very pronounced gendarmes are overcome head-on with piton insurance. After the fifth gendarme, exit onto slabs with an angle of up to 35°. Further, with piton insurance, at the base of a sheer gendarme. Here, the 1st cairn is built. Bypassing the gendarme is impossible. From the control cairn, move right along the slabs for 20–30 meters, crossing a steep groove in the upper part, and exit onto a platform to a sheer black rock. Immediately from the platform, climb 4 meters up, then right onto a platform under a rocky cornice. From the platform, exit onto a sheer smooth wall without holds. Here, apply a human ladder. Then, along a ledge, reach an internal corner closed by an upper slab. Exit from the corner via a negative section. Insurance is via pitons. Behind the internal corner, exit onto a ridge of easy rocks for 70–80 meters. Here, on the ridge, is an overnight stay. The travel time from the initial bivouac is 8–9 hours.

Fig. 13 After this section, there are three small gendarmes that can be bypassed on the left via rocks. Protection through rock outcrops. If there is snow, the gendarmes are traversed via ledges. Piton protection. From the last gendarme, descend while keeping to the left side. Further, there is a snowy saddle with cornices on the left. Be cautious! From the saddle to the summit of Kishkinema, there are two snowy ascents, each about fifteen meters. Beyond them lies the exit to the summit rocks. Move rightward along the ledges to the slab. Piton protection. From the saddle to the summit takes 1 hour of walking. Here is the 2nd cairn. From the summit, descend with alternating protection, keeping to the left side, onto the snowy saddle between the summit of Kiskineta and the ridge extending south to the summit of Frunze. Here, to the right on the rocks, at the beginning of the ascent up the steep snowy slope, is the 3rd cairn. The ascent to the summit of Suleiman Stalsky follows a slope of about 90–100 meters. In the lower part, the slope is snowy with up to 50° steepness, in the middle part, it's icy. Steps need to be cut. Piton protection. In the uppermost part, the slope is snowy, and towards the end of the season, there may be icy conditions, with steepness reaching up to 60°. From here, move rightward along the sharp ridge. About fifteen meters before the ridge, there is a rocky outcrop. Descend 3–4 meters to it, and then move east with a slight gain in elevation onto the snowy ridge leading to the summit of Suleiman Stalsky.

4.2.26

4.2. Pamir, Vanch Range, Peak Khrustalny, 5231 m, North Face

Alpinism Club "Donbass"