Fig. 13
After this section, there are three small gendarmes that can be bypassed on the left via rocks. Protection through rock outcrops. If there is snow, the gendarmes are traversed via ledges. Piton protection.
From the last gendarme, descend while keeping to the left side.
Further, there is a snowy saddle with cornices on the left. Be cautious!
From the saddle to the summit of Kishkinema, there are two snowy ascents, each about fifteen meters. Beyond them lies the exit to the summit rocks. Move rightward along the ledges to the slab. Piton protection.
From the saddle to the summit takes 1 hour of walking.
Here is the 2nd cairn.
From the summit, descend with alternating protection, keeping to the left side, onto the snowy saddle between the summit of Kiskineta and the ridge extending south to the summit of Frunze. Here, to the right on the rocks, at the beginning of the ascent up the steep snowy slope, is the 3rd cairn.
The ascent to the summit of Suleiman Stalsky follows a slope of about 90–100 meters. In the lower part, the slope is snowy with up to 50° steepness, in the middle part, it's icy. Steps need to be cut. Piton protection. In the uppermost part, the slope is snowy, and towards the end of the season, there may be icy conditions, with steepness reaching up to 60°. From here, move rightward along the sharp ridge. About fifteen meters before the ridge, there is a rocky outcrop. Descend 3–4 meters to it, and then move east with a slight gain in elevation onto the snowy ridge leading to the summit of Suleiman Stalsky.
The ridge ascends in steps. The first two are not steep and are snowy; the third is icy and steeper. Cutting steps is necessary. Towards the end, the steepness reaches up to 60°. From this section, a gentle ascent leads to the summit of Suleiman Stalsky. 50–60 meters from the summit, on a rocky outcrop, is the 4th control point.
The descent from the summit initially follows the ridge for about 150 meters, then down a potentially avalanche-prone slope for about 2530 meters (1).
Further:
- Traverse the ridge,
- Descend to the lower part of the rocky ridge,
- Continue onto the Shuitsa glacier.
Return to the Middle Talgar gorge via the OPTÉ pass.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants - up to 8 people.
- Starting point is on the Shokalsky glacier.