and the inner corner, and again along the middle rocks to a sloping platform, in the upper corner of which there is a cairn with a note. Descent to the snowy ridge, leaving three pre-summit gendarmes on the right side. Bypassing them along steep snowslopes, in three steps, leading to the base of the summit tower.
Along easy rocks and large stones, exit to a small saddle between the pre-summit gendarme and the summit tower. From here, ascent to the summit tower, 50–60 m high, and exit (with careful belay) to a rocky platform with "live" stones under an overhanging wall with an inner corner.
Exit to the tower through a cleft from the platform under the inner corner straight up. The rocks are difficult. Belay through a ledge. A few meters from the platform, there is a wide horizontal crack:
- Hammer in a piton for belay and foothold.
- Above, there is a small inclined shelf, along which one can enter the cleft.
- Further, on friction, exit to the summit ridge and along it, after a few meters, to the summit.
Descent along the scree to the Konstituciya Glacier. From the initial bivouac, the entire ascent takes 7–8 hours.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants: 6–8 people. Not recommended for mass ascents.
- Initial bivouac on the right moraine of the Toguzak Glacier.
- Departure from the initial bivouac no later than 5 a.m.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 main ropes, 30 m each; b) 2–3 rock pitons; c) 2 hammers.