Р­Я rock outcrops (150 m). At the very beginning, there is a complex cairn. This is the summit. Then you need to turn west and approach the rocks that give rise to the western ridge.

Descend 100 m down the southern counterfort. Here, on a rocky site, there is a convenient overnight stay.

From the foot of the ridge to the overnight stay, it takes 8 hours of walking.

From the overnight stay, cross the southern slope of the western ridge, staying on the right side on the ridge, descend to the 1st gendarme. It is bypassed on the right by snow. Then there are the rocks of the western ridge. The rocks are strong.

  • The second gendarme is taken along the knife ridge.
  • The 3rd gendarme - Tower - is taken head-on along the line of rocks and snow (or ice). Crampons may be needed. The insurance is hook-type.
  • Descent along complex rocks to a snowy isthmus.
  • The 4th gendarme is also taken head-on. When descending from it, stick to the right side.
  • The 5th gendarme is a sharp needle up to 30 m. The rocks are smoothed, strong. It is bypassed on the left with a loss of height up to 60 m. The ascent is again on the ridge under the gendarme along the crevice.
  • The 6th gendarme is taken head-on along rocks with vertical cracks. The insurance is hook-type.
  • Descent along destroyed rocks.
  • The 7th gendarme is not difficult, but dangerous: there are many "live" stones.
  • The path to the 8th gendarme goes along a snowy-icy slope, then along the ridge.

From the 8th gendarme to the summit of Белый пик is about 200 m, which are passed with 3-4 ice hooks.

The last segment before the summit is less complex.

At the summit, there is a group of rocks, with a cairn.

Descent along the crest of rocks and snow with alternate insurance along the ridge with many drops.

50 m from the summit, the steepness increases. Cutting steps and hook insurance are needed.

The ascent and descent to the summit of Акгюль and from it is not difficult, it goes along a snowy ridge to its junction with the main ridge. Descent should be made by passing from the junction of the ridges along the main ridge, and then descend along the scree to the overnight stay on the Корженевского glacier. Return to the camp through the Суровый pass.

Recommendations for climbers

  1. Number of participants - no more than 6 people.
  2. Initial bivouac on the right branch of the Корженевского glacier.
  3. Intermediate bivouacs: before the summit of Иссык-тен-Чох and between the summits of Белый пик and Акгюль.
  4. Exit from the initial bivouac at 4:00.
  5. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) rope main 2 × 30 m; b) ice hooks 10 pcs.; c) rock hooks 15 pcs.; d) hammers 2 pcs.; e) carabiners 10 pcs.; expendable cord 8 m.

Иссыкташ — Чох.

carabiners 10 pcs.; expendable cord 8 m img-0.jpeg

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment