8.6.1.12

Ascent Passport

1. Khibiny mountain range. Ganeshinga Cirque. Classification table section number: #8.6
2. Name of the peak: Vudyavrchorr 1067 m, route name — «Molotok».
3. Proposed — 5A cat. difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 390 (by altimeter). Route length: 490 m. Section length:
   • V cat. difficulty — 124 m.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ① Class. 5А+1 protocol No. 3 dated 22/XI–46 123 TOURIST CLUB READING ROOM No. 797

RECORD TRAVERSE

PTYSH—DJUGUTURLUCHAT

27.8

Lesson No. 11 from October 24, 1962

Ascent Passport

1. Route — Snow-ice
2. Region — Приполярный Urengoy, Sablin Ridge
3. Category of difficulty — 2B, proposed
4. Route length, height difference — 1000 m, 600 m
5. Piton placement — 2 (ice screw)
6. Movement hours — 8 hours
7. Leader — Eremkin Mikhail Alekseevich (Pr. Shkat.). Participants: Polyakov Sergei Nikolaevich (Gr. Skot.), Senyashkin Alexander Mikhailovich (Pr. U koyt)

Report

On the first ascent of golets Babkha via the North-Eastern edge, approximately category 2B complexity, by the Baikal Alpine School team on June 1, 2020.

I. Ascent Report

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Caucasus, Elbrus ridge
2. Name of the peak: DEMAVEND, 5671 m. Route name — northern ridge.
3. Proposed — 2A cat. dif.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain of the route: from the assault camp — 1371 m (by altimeter). Route length: about 2000 m. Length of sections:

• V cat. dif. — none.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek.
3. Ascent route: Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest slope, 4. M. Pogrebetsky 1931.
4. Category of difficulty: 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 2985 (by altimeter), ascent length: –9 km, descent length: –9.4 km, section lengths: 5th category of difficulty – 120 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Заалайский Ала-Тоо Valley: Кызылсу. Section number according to the 1999 classification table: 4.4
2. Peak name: п. Курумды, route name: по северному гребню
3. Proposed category: 5B cat. sl., first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 2600 m (by altimeter) Route length: 7700 m. Section length:
   • V cat. sl. — — m.

V. Chon-Tor 4180 m

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, 7.4
2. Peak — Chon-Tor 4180 m, via the central buttress of the NW wall, "The Spirit of Adventure"
3. Proposed — 6A cat. diff., first ascent
4. Route characteristic — rock
5. Route sections characteristic Total elevation gain — 892 m Wall section elevation gain — 638 m

PASS

I. Technical category 2. Kirghizskiy Ala-Too, Ak-Sai valley 3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the ice couloir on the North face, 4740 m 4. Proposed 5B cat. of diff. first ascent 5. Height difference 820 m, length 1580 m Length of sections with 5 cat. of diff. is 280 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 50° (4100–4600), no sections of 6 cat. of diff. 6. Pitons driven: rock 20, bolt hangers 11, ice 80 7. Team's total climbing time 24 hours, days 2

ASCENT OF MALAYA NAKHAZHBITA

Geographical Characteristics of the Region

The Malaya Nakhazhbita peak is located in one of the most beautiful corners of the Caucasus, in the Irafsky District of the North Ossetian ASSR. If you travel along the Urukh River valley, after gardens and stanitsas with dusty roads, after treeless, smoothed by time and greenery foothills, after dark Ossetian ancestral towers of the Akhsau, Moska, and Stur-Digora settlements, the peaks of the Suvansky Ridge suddenly emerge. The Suvansky Ridge is located parallel to the Main Caucasian Ridge, but the former is higher and more powerful than the latter. For example, the most beautiful and highest peak of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Laboda, has a height of 4314 m, while Suvan is 4490 m, Glavnaya Nakhazhbita is 4405 m, and so on. Malaya Nakhazhbita (4225 m) is located in the middle of the Suvansky crest, to the west of Glavnaya Nakhazhbita; according to the first ascenders, it is one of the most beautiful peaks of the crest, with a logical and technically interesting route. The group was advised and cleared for the ascent by the authorized master of sports Boris Ryazhsky, a first ascender of this peak, who provided valuable advice on:

• the route;
• equipment. A brief description of the route according to the consultation: the route is combined, with a semi-closed broken glacier at the bottom, a snow-ice couloir leading to the crest. The lower part of the crest is heavily destroyed and rockfall-prone, followed by a wall with a single vertical crack and then a crest of monolithic blocks with small walls (5-3 m) going all the way to the summit. The descent is via route 2A cat. sl., the main difficulty of which lies in the icy ridge (8-10 ropes) from the saddle to the glacier.