V. Korona (4th)

4820 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the ascent to v. Korona (4th) via the western wall and ice gully “5A”, (c)

Ascent Passport:

1. TIAN-SHAN, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa gorge, 7
2. Pik Korona (4th), via the western wall and ice gully.
3. First ascent, proposed 5A category of difficulty.
4. Nature of the route: combined.
5. Height difference of the route — 610 m.

PASS

I. Technical category 2. Kirghizskiy Ala-Too, Ak-Sai valley 3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the ice couloir on the North face, 4740 m 4. Proposed 5B cat. of diff. first ascent 5. Height difference 820 m, length 1580 m Length of sections with 5 cat. of diff. is 280 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 50° (4100–4600), no sections of 6 cat. of diff. 6. Pitons driven: rock 20, bolt hangers 11, ice 80 7. Team's total climbing time 24 hours, days 2

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombay-Ulgen Western (4036 m), through the center of the Triangle of the southern wall.
5. Proposed 6B category difficulty, first ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length — 1690 m; length of sections 5–6 category difficulty — 605 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (Triangle South wall) — 84°;

— Mapunpin loцohodeэus on 6. Aoribay (N) — 3B cat. diff. ASCENT ROUTE TO DOMBAI (S) SUMMIT via DOMBAI Pass 3B cat. diff. Ascent route to Dombai (S) — 3A cat. diff. ASCENT ROUTE TO DOMBAI (S) SUMMIT via DOMBAI Pass 3A cat. diff. Dombai (S) summit, 3585 m Dombai Pass 140 m, 10°, 1 30 m, 40°, 2 40 m, 50°, 3

TRAVERSE ROUTE OF THE DOMBAY — ULGEN MASSIF July 1951

Fig. 53

1. Traversing the Dottakh-kaya peaks (3670 m) with ascent to the Western summit via the northwestern ridge (cont. fors) — category 4A difficulty (fig. 53)

From Dombay, by car to the Bu-Ulgen plain or on foot through the Chuchkhur pass. From the Bu-Ulgen plain to the confluence of the Dottakh-kaya and Bu-Ulgen rivers and across the snow bridge (fordable at the end of summer) over the Bu-Ulgen River. Then along the Dottakh-kaya River upstream to the base of the northwestern ridge. Further:

• detour around the base of the ridge from the left via the "ram's foreheads",
• ascent via the moraine and a small snowpatch to a deep depression in the ridge — a bivouac site, water. From the Bu-Ulgen plain, 4–4.5 hours. From the bivouac, up to the ridge to the right and along it straight up (or bypassing certain sections) to the first sentinel rock. Ascent to the sentinel rock head-on (belay!), descent from it on the right side via ledges and back onto the ridge. Ascent to the second sentinel rock from the right via a 6-meter chimney (pitons for belay!), then traverse left and exit onto the ridge via slabs (belay!). Further, via a steep slab (60°, belay!) to the first wall. Ascent up the wall via a 20-meter chimney (pitons for belay!), then traverse left 20–25 meters across loose rocks. Then via a ledge up to the right onto the ridge, ascent via slabs to a snowpatch and along it to the left under the second wall, 120 meters high (wall steepness 70 — 75°). Ascent up the wall straight (pitons for belay!), exit onto the pre-summit ridge and along it to the Western summit.

REPORT

on the ascent of Pik Ine (3409 m), located in the area of the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass, via the northwest ridge, category 4A (approximately).

1. The route was first climbed in 1960 by a group led by Macevitogo Yu.M. July 30 – August 1, 1973, the ascent was made by a group from "Alibek" tourist center, consisting of:

• 1. Kokodiy N.G. — 2nd sports category — leader
• 2. Borodenko Yu.A. — 1st sports category
• 3. Chepeleva I.P. — 2nd sports category
• 4. Kononenko V.I. — 2nd sports category

2. Brief geographical description of the ascent area Pik Ine (3409 m) — a low, beautiful pointed peak, fully justifying its name ("Needle"), is located in a spur branching off to the north from the Dzheguturoluchat horseshoe in the area of its eastern peak. The peak is clearly visible from Dombay поляна.

DESCRIPTION

of the ascent route to Peak KAP From the Ali-Bek base camp along the trail through the Ali-Bek river up to the Belalakai canyon via the "Monkey trail" to the overnight stay. 1.5 hours. From the overnight stay through a snow bridge in the canyon or via a wedged stone to the trail on the right-bank moraine of the Belalakai glacier and along it to the tongue of the glacier. Crossing the tongue of the glacier in its lower part, approach under a wide green couloir and up it to the saddle on the north-eastern ridge of Peak KAP. 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
3. Summit

пр. № 431 от 1/3-77, п.4. ЗА, пп.

Report on the Ascent of Main Kara-Kaya Peak via the First Ascent Route on the Eastern Ridge, approximately Category 3B difficulty, August 8, 1975

Main Kara-Kaya Peak is located in the Karakai spur of the Main Caucasian Range. The peak can be accessed via four ridges:

• Eastern
• South-Eastern
• Northern
• South-Western Favorable weather conditions, convenient access routes, and an abundance of classified and unclassified routes of various difficulty levels make this peak highly interesting for mountaineers. The following routes have been classified on Main Kara-Kaya Peak:
• via the South-Eastern ridge — Category 2B

Report on the Ascent in the Area

of the Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass to the summit of Glavnaya Karakaya via NW wall (left part) (3896 m) by the team of instructors from DOMBAY alpine camp:

• SAVCHUK V.A. — CMS
• KOROTKOV V.A. — MS
• KARPOV Yu.G. — CMS
• PERKOVSKY L.I. — CMS
• MOCHNIKOV E.I. — CMS
• AZARYEV I.A. — 1st sports category Team coaches: MAGOMEDOV Kh.K.; KUROCHKINA Z.V. DOMBAY — 1974