Ascent via the South Ridge, category 3A.

Day 1

Departure at 15:00 from the base camp located at 4200 m under the tongue of the Oktyabrsky Glacier on the right (orographic) side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the summit, the branches of the Kok-Sai River are forded twice. The duration of the path to the foot of the summit is 1 hour. The path to the summit begins on the southwest slope via a couloir covered with medium scree. The steepness of the ascent is initially 20°, then increases to 35°. The overnight stop is chosen at an altitude of around 5100 m on the slope leading to the south ridge. There, with some effort, a campsite can be constructed, and there are snowfields for obtaining water. The duration of the path from the base camp to the overnight stop is 4–5 hours.

Day 2

Departure at 4:30 AM up the slope with a steepness of 30°–40°, covered with snow and small scree, in the direction of the south ridge. Movement is in rope teams. The duration of the path to the ridge is up to 1 hour. Movement along the ridge is in rope teams to the left in the direction of the summit. Insurance is simultaneous. Initially, the ridge is a rocky ridge with a slight steepness of ascent. Movement is with simultaneous insurance through rocks.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Trans-Alay Range. Valley of the Kichkesu River (Left Kichkesu Glacier). Section number according to the classification table — 4.4
2. Name of the summit: 5395.5 m. Proposed — Peak Semen Dvornichenko. Route: Via the SE ridge from the Left Kichkesu Glacier.
3. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Character of the route: ice and snow.
5. Elevation gain of the route: 880 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 4200 m. Length of sections with III category of difficulty — 850 m. Steepness: main part of the route up to 40°.
6. Pitons used on the route: rock — 0, ice — 57, including ATO — 0.
7. Team's moving hours: 20 hours.

Pamir. Trans-Alai ridge. Peak Musa Dzhaliľ 4729. Assumed category 4A–4B, first ascent of the route. The character of the route is snow-ice. Route length — 1400 m. Difficulty sections:

• Cat. 1 — 400 m
• Cat. 2 — 100 m
• Cat. 3 — 600 m
• Cat. 4 — 200 m
• Cat. 5 — 50 m
• Cat. 5+ — 50 m Average slope of the main part — 50°. Pitons left on the route — 0. Ice screws used — 80. Total amount of technical climbing aids used — 0. Total climbing time — 6 h 30 min (1 day without overnight stay).

Russian Mountaineering Championship, "High-Altitude" Class

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of LENINA (ABU ALI IBN SINA) via the Eastern ridge of Peak Kompleksny, 5A category of difficulty (tentatively), by the team from Voronezh, from August 4 to August 6, 2023.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Saukdara ridge (western spur of Zulumart ridge, North Pamir). Valley: Northern Zulumart. Section number according to the 1999 classification table — 4.5
2. Peak name: peak Beleuli. Route name: via the northern wall of the eastern ridge.
3. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: snow-ice.
5. Route height difference: 905 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1680 m. Length of sections:
   • V category of difficulty — 0 m.

Peak Beleuli 6065 m. Via the north face and east ridge — second ascent

(Route by MAI (MAI) tourist club, led by A. Lebedev, cat. 4B) Peak Beleuli (6065) was one of the last unclimbed "six-thousander" peaks in the Pamir region until 2001. It is the highest point in the Zulumart-Saukdara mountain node. Located in the Saukdara ridge. It has two peaks:

• The eastern peak is about 5950 m, with a rock wall dropping to the east;
• The higher western peak is 6065 m. Between the peaks lies a plateau, from which a steep ice fall descends to the north. (From A. Lebedev's report.) View of Peak Beleuli and the ascent route from the North Zulumart glacier.

Contents

1. Route Passport — 4

The ascent to the ridge on the left along the track is initially on snow (30–35°), then the snow gives way to ice covered with a thin layer of loose snow (steepness 40–45°). Exit to the second saddle from the steep ascent. Further along the ridge, overcoming the gendarmes "head-on". Descent to the saddle before the steep ascent via a wall (5 m). From the saddle, on the right side of the steep, wide gully along the rocks. Snow-covered slabs, rope protection is via rock features. Having passed a large smooth slab (photo 2), upwards to the right via a short wall. In this section (from the saddle), 3 rock pitons were hammered in. Further along a not very pronounced steep (55–60°) ridge upwards. The rocks are solid, местами заглаженные, rope protection via rock features (I–2 pitons per rope). Photo 3. In places, there are sheer walls 10–15 m. Exit to the right shoulder of the gendarme (Photo 4), bypassing it on the right via a narrow ledge above the sheer drop and descent to the saddle before the snowy ascent. The total ascent to the gendarme is about 300 m, with a total of 11 pitons hammered in. From the base of the ridge — 4 hours. From the saddle, a steep (45°–50°) snowy ascent. The snow is exceptionally heavy, depth — 80 cm – 1 m, loose. In places, there is a weak crust, on which one can move by crawling. Ascent 100 m. Further, a more gentle wide ridge, the character of the snow is the same. Finally, a long ascent along a slope of about 30° leads to the summit of Peak Volodarsky (on the left side — a cornice). From the saddle behind the gendarme — 4 hours. The descent is initially along the north-eastern ridge for 200 m, a steep ridge — 50–60°, then downwards to the left, bypassing the ice drops. Snow depth is about 60 cm, loose. Further, re-entering the ascent tracks and following them to the overnight stop. From the summit — 3–4 hours. On the next day, descent to the base camp.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — snow and ice climb.
2. Ascent region — Pamir.
3. Traverse of peaks p. Oktyabrsky — P. Lenin with ascent to p. Oktyabrsky Yuzhny via the South slope.
4. Difficulty category — 5B (approximately).
5. Route characteristics (first ascent section):
   • Total height difference — 1680 m
   • Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 790 m
   • Average steepness — 45°
6. Pitons used:

Report

On the high-altitude traverse of Peak Oktyabrsky – Peak Lenin, with the ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky via the western edge, accomplished by the combined team of CSKA. Dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the ascent by the Red Army team to Peak Lenin in 1934. The Trans-Alai Range, discovered in 1871 by the renowned explorer of Central Asia, A.P. Fedchenko, is one of the highest mountain ranges in the Pamir region. The highest part of the range is located in its center and forms a chain of peaks: Peak Lenin – 7134 m, Peak 6852 m, Peak Dzerzhinsky, Peak Kyzyl-Agyn, Peak Edinstva, and others. Peak Lenin is the third highest peak in the Soviet Union, the most popular "seven-thousander," and a high-altitude mountaineering stadium of the country. To the east of Peak Lenin, the Trans-Alai Range turns south and, in the area of Peak Edinstva, divides into two. The main range continues eastward, and a powerful, long Zulumart range with its highest point, Peak Oktyabrsky (6780 m), branches off to the south. The chain of peaks from Peak Oktyabrsky to Krylenko Pass was named "Mountains of Barricades" by N.V. Krylenko in 1928, which now includes: Oktyabrsky Peaks, Peak Edinstva, Peak 6350 m, and Peak 6104 m. Peak Oktyabrsky is a massif with three peaks: the South Peak, with an elevation of about 6750 m (this is the peak visible from the Kara-Jilgа valley), the Main Peak with an elevation of 6780 m, and the North Peak with an elevation of about 2270 m. The elevation differences between the peaks reach 100–120 meters. From Krylenko Pass to the south descends the powerful B. Sauk-Dara glacier, which is framed by steep slopes and walls of the surrounding peaks.

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8