The ascent to the ridge on the left along the track is initially on snow (30–35°), then the snow gives way to ice covered with a thin layer of loose snow (steepness 40–45°). Exit to the second saddle from the steep ascent. Further along the ridge, overcoming the gendarmes "head-on". Descent to the saddle before the steep ascent via a wall (5 m). From the saddle, on the right side of the steep, wide gully along the rocks. Snow-covered slabs, rope protection is via rock features. Having passed a large smooth slab (photo 2), upwards to the right via a short wall. In this section (from the saddle), 3 rock pitons were hammered in. Further along a not very pronounced steep (55–60°) ridge upwards. The rocks are solid, местами заглаженные, rope protection via rock features (I–2 pitons per rope). Photo 3. In places, there are sheer walls 10–15 m. Exit to the right shoulder of the gendarme (Photo 4), bypassing it on the right via a narrow ledge above the sheer drop and descent to the saddle before the snowy ascent. The total ascent to the gendarme is about 300 m, with a total of 11 pitons hammered in. From the base of the ridge — 4 hours.
From the saddle, a steep (45°–50°) snowy ascent. The snow is exceptionally heavy, depth — 80 cm – 1 m, loose. In places, there is a weak crust, on which one can move by crawling. Ascent 100 m. Further, a more gentle wide ridge, the character of the snow is the same. Finally, a long ascent along a slope of about 30° leads to the summit of Peak Volodarsky (on the left side — a cornice). From the saddle behind the gendarme — 4 hours.
The descent is initially along the north-eastern ridge for 200 m, a steep ridge — 50–60°, then downwards to the left, bypassing the ice drops. Snow depth is about 60 cm, loose. Further, re-entering the ascent tracks and following them to the overnight stop. From the summit — 3–4 hours. On the next day, descent to the base camp.
The route is of certain technical interest, especially considering that the rock work is carried out at an altitude of 5400 m. The group believes that the ascent to Peak Volodarsky via the northern ridge can undoubtedly be classified as a Category 3B route.
The description was compiled on 10.08.1953 by A. Logachev.