Dalar Peak — 3979 m

Ascent from the south — Cat. 4A difficulty (Description as you move towards the summit) The path from the camp to Dalar Pass — see the description of the Cat. 3B route. From Dalar Pass, along the snowy slope to the left, bypassing the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar and the counterforts of Bolshoy Dalar, to the snowy isthmus between the wall of the II counterfort (on the right) and the "sheep's foreheads" (on the left). Ascend up the snow and, at the end of the isthmus, turn right onto smoothed rocks and exit onto the shoulder of the II counterfort. This is a bivouac site. First control point. From Dalar Pass — 2 hours 30 minutes. From the bivouac, to the right of the characteristic wall "camel", exit onto the ledges to a 10-meter wall. Go straight through the wall (with pitons!) onto the scree and ascend up and to the right onto a snowy slope with a slope of up to 30°. Traverse it, avoiding rocky outcrops, and, to the right of a large boulder, exit onto broken rocks and continue ascending to the saddle of the main eastern ridge of the summit tower. From the bivouac — 2 hours.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of DALAR from the West along the rocky triangle of the Western wall a group of instructors from the mountaineering camp of CS DSO “Spartak” senior instructor ZHEMCHUZHNIKOV Yu.A., instructor LEONOVICH O.A. July 20–23, 1975

Route progression

Day 1 (July 20)

We left the Uzunkol mountaineering camp at 2:30, planning that an early arrival at the bivouac under the route would allow us to process the beginning of the wall. However, the approach took us longer than we expected: heavy backpacks significantly slowed our pace. We arrived at the bivouac at the end of the moraine on the plateau under the wall at 17:30.

Passport

Ascent to the "Bezымянная" peak via the southwest ridge

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Caucasus, Bezengi area, southwest spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 1).
3. "Bezымянная" peak 4050 m, in the spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 2).
4. Proposed category — 3.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1300 m; b) route length — 900–1100 m of snow-ice slope; c) average steepness — 35–45°.

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship. Technical Altitude Class. 2024

Report on the Ascent of Dalar Peak (3988 m) via the Eastern Ridge (V. Kavunenko Route, 1964), Category 5A, Combined Terrain

The route was completed by the team from the Alpine Club of St. Petersburg, under the auspices of the "OGK" (St. Petersburg). Team Captain: A.V. Kichurchak.

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Andrey Vladimirovich Kichurchak, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Elena Vadimovna Aleksandrova, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of Coach, Sports Rank	D.M. Kiselev, Candidate Master of Sports
1.4	Organization	St. Petersburg Alpine Federation, "OGK" Alpine Club

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Technical Class 2024. Report on the Ascent to Mt. Dalar via the East Ridge (Kavunenko Route, 1964) 5A Category of Complexity.

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Strizhko Yulia Gennadyevna, 2nd sports rank.
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Radkova Maria Alekseyevna, 2nd sports rank. Rodyukov Oleg Yuryevich, 2nd sports rank.

For the championship of the Central Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society in the category of technically complex ascents.

DALAR PEAK

via the western wall

Team of the Spartak CS DSS Alpine Camp "Uzunkol"

Korablin B. N.	— team leader
Belyaev Yu. S.	— deputy team leader
Korshunov D. M.	— team member
Paunksnis R. A.	— team member

St. Petersburg Championship in mountaineering 2009

Report

UTS FASIL St. Petersburg team on the ascent of Dalar peak via Tramontana route (northern buttress of the northern shoulder), first ascent.

Table of Contents

Contents

Route Passport Map of the area with the group's path Brief overview of the area and the ascent object Photograph of the summit with route lines

EAAC Championship in the Rock Category

Report

On the ascent of Dalar peak via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder (first ascent) by the Combined team of Moscow region 2010

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, section according to KMGV-2.3.
2. Dalar peak (3988 m) via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder.
3. Proposed first ascent of 5B category.
4. Route type — rock climbing.

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. DALAR via north-eastern edge (Stepanov's route)
4. Category 5B, combined
5. Height difference: 1200 m, length 1500 m, length of category 5-6 sections – 840 m. Average steepness of main sections 80° (3000–3900), including category 5 sections 85° (3400–3600, 3750–3900)
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 94/16, bolted –/–, "friends" 36/4, ice 7/–
7. Team's travel hours: 28 and days – 2
8. Overnights: 1 – on moraine on the right side of North Dalar glacier, 2 – on "sheep's foreheads" above the third belt (sitting), 3 – on Dalar pass.
9. Leader: Timoshenko V.N. – 1st sports category, participants: Shuralev S., Prasol I., Zheleznyak S. – 1st sports category

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.