Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. DALAR via north-eastern edge (Stepanov's route)
4. Category 5B, combined
5. Height difference: 1200 m, length 1500 m, length of category 5-6 sections – 840 m. Average steepness of main sections 80° (3000–3900), including category 5 sections 85° (3400–3600, 3750–3900)
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 94/16, bolted –/–, "friends" 36/4, ice 7/–
7. Team's travel hours: 28 and days – 2
8. Overnights: 1 – on moraine on the right side of North Dalar glacier, 2 – on "sheep's foreheads" above the third belt (sitting), 3 – on Dalar pass.
9. Leader: Timoshenko V.N. – 1st sports category, participants: Shuralev S., Prasol I., Zheleznyak S. – 1st sports category
10. Coach: Kovensky G.I. (220005, Minsk, F. Skorina ave., 43–2)
11. Approach to the route: July 31, 1997 Summit: August 1, 1997 Return: August 2, 1997

Initial bivouac on the lateral terrace of North Dalar glacier. From Uzunkol alpbase along the left bank of Kichkinekol to the cowshed. Cross to the right bank near the cowshed via a bridge. Then along the right bank of the river upstream along the gorge to a large lateral moraine of Bol. Kichkinekol glacier. Along the moraine ridge to its end and up to the right along steep grassy slopes to a large terrace above the icefall of North Dalar glacier. From the alpbase 4 hours.

The route is characterized by free climbing and logical progression. Each rock belt, and there are three, is more difficult than the previous one. One of the challenging sections is the 120-meter summit inner corner-chimney. A tactical feature is the passage through an objectively dangerous icefall on the approach from the bivouac.

From the bivouac, descend along the "sheep's foreheads" to the icefall. Follow the ice ledge-terrace under rockfall and seracs. Across North Dalar glacier up to the right part of Dalar's north-western edge. An inclined ledge runs through the lower part of the edge's wall. Its right section abuts a huge couloir that divides the northern and north-eastern walls of Dalar. Access to the ledge is at its right end via smooth rocks. Along the ledge leftwards to the edge's ridge. There's a platform here, but it's exposed to rockfall.

Move up along the edge left of its crest, but don't go far left onto seemingly more gentle transitions from belt to belt: slabs have reverse slopes, water flows, rocks fall, and transitions across rocks are more hazardous.

After the third rock belt, in the lower part of a large talus ledge covered with snow, there's an overnight stay on a 1.5 x 2 m ledge. From the overnight spot, ascend 40 m up the snow and then leftwards along rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads" at an angle of 40–45° to the base of the chimney. The chimney is blocked by rock plugs in several places. The chimney leads to a talus cirque. Along its right edge, access to the summit ridge and along it rightwards to the summit. Descent via a category 3B route to the south towards Dalar pass. Overnight stay on the pass. From the pass, return to Uzunkol alpbase via Myrd gorge (4–5 hours).

First ascent of the route to the summit tower with an ascent to the summit from the south – N. Semenov's group, 1956, complete traverse – V. Stepanov's group, 1962.