Dalar Peak — 3979 m
Ascent from the south — Cat. 4A difficulty
(Description as you move towards the summit)
The path from the camp to Dalar Pass — see the description of the Cat. 3B route.
From Dalar Pass, along the snowy slope to the left, bypassing the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar and the counterforts of Bolshoy Dalar, to the snowy isthmus between the wall of the II counterfort (on the right) and the "sheep's foreheads" (on the left). Ascend up the snow and, at the end of the isthmus, turn right onto smoothed rocks and exit onto the shoulder of the II counterfort. This is a bivouac site. First control point. From Dalar Pass — 2 hours 30 minutes.
From the bivouac, to the right of the characteristic wall "camel", exit onto the ledges to a 10-meter wall. Go straight through the wall (with pitons!) onto the scree and ascend up and to the right onto a snowy slope with a slope of up to 30°. Traverse it, avoiding rocky outcrops, and, to the right of a large boulder, exit onto broken rocks and continue ascending to the saddle of the main eastern ridge of the summit tower.
From the bivouac — 2 hours.
From here, turn right, bypassing the gendarme, onto a scree saddle to the base of the triangular wall (with protection!). Then ascend up the scree to the left and upwards for 20 m, exiting onto an inclined 80 m ledge, which traverses the triangular wall (with pitons!). Along the ledge, into the hollow between the upper parts of the I and II counterforts of the Dalar summit tower. Across the hollow, along a faintly visible ledge, 40 m, to a gap in the left edge of the hollow. From here, ascend up and to the right, along rocks of moderate difficulty (with pitons!), to a cleft. Up and to the left, through the cleft (with pitons!), onto a smoothed block. Through it, ascend up the slabs (with pitons!) onto large-blocky rocks. Along them, traverse left, bypassing 2 steep couloirs, with an ascent to the base of a 70 m rust-colored gendarme of the I counterfort. The steepness of individual sections is up to 75°, with sheer sections in places. Here is the 2nd control point. From the saddle — 1 hour 30 minutes. Ascend onto the gendarme — to the right of the smoothed wall, along an inner corner — 10 m (with pitons!) onto an overhanging block. From it, up and to the left, onto a triangular ledge under an overhanging wall. Pull up backpacks here. From the ledge, ascend 5 m up a cleft to the left corner of the gendarme in its middle part. Bypass the overhanging corner on the left, then turn right onto a 50° slope onto a ledge (with pitons!). Along the ledge, left for 7 m — exit onto steep rocks, along them up and to the right for 20 m onto a terrace of the gendarme. From the base of the gendarme — 3 hours. Here is the 3rd control point. From the terrace, along stepped rocks, onto II and III terraces and further onto the summit of the gendarme (with pitons!). Descend from the gendarme onto scree, ascend along it onto the pre-summit ridge and along simple rocks, to the left — onto Dalar summit. From the I terrace of the gendarme — 1 hour 30 minutes.
Descent from the summit along the route — Cat. 3B difficulty. Number of participants in the group — 4-6 people.
Equipment for a group of 4: — rope — 2 × 40 m; — rock pitons — 15-17 pcs; — carabiners — 12 pcs; — expendable rope — 10 m; — hammer — 2 pcs; — ladders — 1-2 pcs.
Height difference — 800 m. From camp to camp — 3 days. Number of pitons used — 37 pcs.
Group leader — instructor Lukashenko A.V. — 1st sports category; participants — instructor Martin Yu.L. — 1st sports category; Lukovaty and Ryabinin — 2nd sports category.
Note: Time for the route during repeated ascents remains unchanged; the number of pitons — is reduced to 9-11-13 pcs.