Streams R0 160 m 3 (45–50°) R2 120 m 2 45° R3 60 m 3 80° BLACK RIDGE R4

From the Osetin pass, [descend] along the middle part of the glacier, then along the scree and reach the second rocky outcrop (counting from the Kalper pass). From the rocky outcrop, go left-up along the scree and "sheep's foreheads" to the platforms. From the Osetin pass I — 1 h 30 min. From the platforms, ascend left to a green ledge. Traverse the ledge right-up towards the "gates." Then, ascend a snowy (snow-ice) slope to enter the "gates" (with protection) and then rise to a scree saddle. Cairn! From the platforms 1 h. From the saddle, ascend first left-up (30 m), and then along an inclined ledge right-up (loose rocks!) to the black vertical veins on the 80-meter wall. Overcome the wall to the right of the black veins. (Difficult climbing, piton protection, possible rockfall from above!) After overcoming the wall, traverse right (40 m) along a snowy couloir (protection! Possible rockfall!) and exit onto a simple ridge. Ascend the ridge with simultaneous, sometimes alternating, protection left-up to a triangular rock. Traverse the rock left-up (piton protection!) and then right-up to reach the upper edge. Continue strictly along the edge towards the summit. From the control point

PASSPORT

Ascent to peak Kalper via the Northeast Edge.

1. Category of ascent: Combined
2. Area of ascent: Tsey, Kalper ridge
3. Summit: Kalper, 3800 m, route via Northeast Edge
4. Estimated category difficulty: 5A–4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference –1100 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty –250 m, average steepness – 45°
6. Pitons used: for belay – 23, for artificial holds – 8, including rock pitons – 29, ice screws – 2.
7. Duration: 20 hours
8. Number of bivouacs: 2, with available tent sites.

V. Karaugom Western via Western Ridge, Cat. 4A

BIG CL. WEST CL. R0–R12 500 m 35° 2B R12 60 m 35° 3B WESTERN R13–R20 300 m 35°–40° 3B R20–R22 80 m 45°–50° 4B R22–R23 50 m 40° 3A R23 120 m 35°–40° 2B

V. Karaugom, Traverse, 4B cat. diff.

Western Eastern North-East ridge Shoulder Bol. Zh. R1 R2 R3

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Skalisty Range.
3. Peak: Kion-Khokh (3421 m), via the East Ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2A, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 400 m, total route length — about 2500 m. Average steepness of the route — about 20°.
6. Number of pitons hammered on the route: 4.
7. Number of moving hours/days: 5 hours – 1 day.
8. Overnight stays: none.
9. Leader: Sergey Egorin, Candidate for Master of Sports.

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Skalisty Range.
3. Peak Kion-Khokh (3421 m), via the Western ridge.
4. Estimated category complexity 2B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 400 m — including: the actual wall section — 40 m. Total route length — 1200 m. Length of the wall section — 60 m. Of which: category 5 complexity — 2 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 75°. Average steepness of the route — 30°.
6. Pitons hammered on the route: rock — 6/0.
7. Number of climbing hours/days: 6/1.
8. Overnight stays: none.

2. Group equipment: a) standard, additional, special equipment: | main rope | - | auxiliary rope | - | | -------------------- | - | ----------------------------- | - | | carabiners | - | ice axes | - | | ice screws | - | rock hammers | - | | ice hammers | - | rock pitons | - | | ice pitons | - | crampons | - | | harness | - | protection gear | - | | rappel slings | - | piton hammers | - | | sling-extenders | - | quickdraws | - |

Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing region: Caucasus, 26: Komidon River valley
3. Peak, route: KION-KHOKH peak (3420 m): from the South, right of the ridge
4. Expected category of difficulty: 4A: partially explored
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 300 m, route length — 450 m, section lengths:
   • 3 — 140 m
   • 4 — 30 m
   • 5 — 55 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60–70°

64. Tsurungal via the West Face (combined route, V. Gabelashvili, grade 4A, fig. 5, 12). From the "Ailama" alpine camp, follow the trail up the gorge along the left bank of the Koruldashi River. Above the point where the second stream of the Koruldashi Glacier merges into the river on the right, cross the river and follow the trail on the left side of the large green moraine to reach the lower plateau of the Koruldashi Glacier. It takes 1–1.5 hours from the alpine camp. On the glacier, make your way to the right side of the ice-and-snow slope with rockfall in the upper part, descending from the Tsurungal saddle on the Main Caucasian Range between Ailama and Tsurungal. From the glacier, having overcome the bergschrund:

• 200–250 m up and to the right (loose rocks) along the steep broken ice-and-snow slope below the