Krasnoflotets

The low, sharp triangle of Krasnoflotets peak (4100 m) is located in the southeastern part of the Karaugom plateau, in the Tsey range, between the Northern Double-peak to the south and the Krasnoarmeyets peak to the northeast. From the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier, Krasnoflotets is not visible, as it is embedded in the Karaugom plateau. A low ice saddle connects the Krasnoflotets peak with the Bivouachnaya peak, located northwest of the peak in the center of the Karaugom plateau. In 1939, A. Komarov, K. Kuzmin, A. Petrov, and M. Rabinovich ascended the peak via the only existing route at that time. Two small rocky ridges rising from the Karaugom plateau remain unclimbed. 116. Krasnoflotets via the Northeast ridge (combined route, 2A category of complexity, Fig. 20, 27). The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the saddle of the Tsey range between the Krasnoarmeyets peak to the left and the Krasnoflotets peak to the right, with an initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak, is described in routes 83 and 114. On the saddle, turn right and ascend a steep 180-200-meter ice-and-snow slope (cornices), then climb the heavily destroyed and snow-covered simple Northeast ridge to reach the Krasnoflotets peak. From the initial bivouac, it takes 4-5 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. Fig. 27

Moscow Order of Lenin Aviation Institute

named after Sergo Ordzhonikidze

Ascent

to the summit of Mamisong Khokh via the right edge of the North face (approximately 5B category of difficulty) First ascent. Group leader: V. Obruchnikov. Coaches: Master of Sports of the USSR L. Puchkov Master of Sports of the USSR M. Zinin

Report on the First Ascent of Mamison-khokh Peak via the North Face to the Eastern Peak of Mamison-khokh (left edge) approximately Category 5B difficulty

Mamison-khokh Peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks of Chancha-khokh (4461.0) and the Ronketti massif (3982). To the east of the Main Mamison-khokh Peak, a spur extends, dividing the Tsey Glacier into northern and southern cirques, which contain:

• Eastern peak of Mamison-khokh;
• Nikolaev Peak;
• Khitsan-khokh;
• Khitsan Pass. The North Face of Mamison-khokh Peak drops into the northern cirque of the Tsey Glacier with three distinct edges (see photo).

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF RUSSIA RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION Classified 5А+ Protocol № 229 dated November 20, 1964 80

Ascent Passport

1. Category: ice and snow climb
2. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge
3. Mamisong, 4358 m, via the left icefall of the north face
4. Proposed route — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 780 m, route length 1060 m. Length of Category 5B sections — 380 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60° (3820 m — 4140 m).
6. Ice screws used: 89
7. Team's climbing hours — 7, days — II.
8. No overnight stays.

Report

of the combined team of the city of Kiev on the repeated ascent of the central rib of the northern wall of the Mamisongkhok peak. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge, July 25-31, 1964 The group dedicated their ascent to the 20th anniversary of the liberation of the city of Kiev from the German fascist invaders.

Brief characteristics of the Tsey mountain region and the route taken by the group

The Tsey mountain region is located to the north of the Main Caucasian Range, including the peaks Nokausak-Zayne to the west and Mamisongkhok to the east. The main peaks of the region are located on the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs, which bound large glaciers: Karaugom, Tsey, and Skazsky. The most significant peaks are:

• Uilpata-tau
• Chanchakhi-khokh

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range 3. Mamisontau (4358 m) — through the center of the northern wall triangle 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff. combined (first ascent) 5. Height difference — 918 m including the "triangle" — 490 m. Length — 1410 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 845 m, including 6 cat. diff. — 175 m. Sections:

• 3518–3534
• 3596–3694
• 3730–3770

Kharkov

Report

on the 1967 Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship by the Kharkov regional council team of the "Avangard" sports society in the category of technically complex ascents

Team Composition

Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society

1. Grigorenko-Prigoda Yuri Ivanovich

Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering, engaged in mountaineering since 1956, born in 1935, Ukrainian, non-partisan

2. Neborak Valentin Stepanovich

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; North-Eastern ridge-branch of Kalthberg peak; section number in Classification 2.7.
2. Monakh peak — 2757 m; from South along South-West ridge.
3. Proposed 2B category; first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route elevation difference — 400 m. Length about 1400 m. Steepness of key route sections up to 90°. Average steepness of the whole route — 20°.
6. Pitons left on the route — 5.
7. Team's walking hours — 6 hours, days — 1.
8. Leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich — Master of Sports

Report on the Ascent of the National Team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the Summit of Belalakaya 3861 m

via the South-Eastern Lap. Presumably 5A category of difficulty. First Ascent. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — 1st sports category Report compiled in November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2. From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Climbing Participants

1. Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A.