Report on the ascent to the summit of Index (2595 m) via the Brun—Perru route through the East ridge with category 3A by the training department of AK «Polytechnic» on July 29, 2018 Leader: V. A. Molodozhen Coach: V. A. Molodozhen St. Petersburg 2018

1. Climbing Report

Mountaineering Route Passport

Mountain region — Balbanyu river valley Mountain range — Issledovatelsky Ridge Peak — Mount Karpinsky (1803) Route — via the south-west ridge Complexity category — 2A cat. (sk) Alpinism Federation of the Komi Republic Syktyvkar city Ascent Passport

• Region — Subpolar Urals

6104812

ASCENT REPORT

1. Route — 1NW rock route. Peak height 1350 (Sablya Severnaia)
2. Region: Subpolar Urals
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 4A cat. diff.
4. Route length, height difference: 800 m, 600 m
5. Pitons placement — 0, Chocks — 50
6. Movement hours: 12 h
7. Leader: Poliakov Sergei Nikolaevich, 1st sports category. Participants: Khireev Gerasim Mikhailovich, 1st sports category; Aiugov Sergei Nikolaevich, 1st sports category.

Sokol — 39

The "Malevolent Dwarf" 5A, 255 m 6B, A2 Lavrinenko A., Tushko T. (August 7, 2007) The route starts 100 m to the right of the beginning of the approach to "Brov'" and "Gran'".

• R0–R1: Easy climbing up the cleft to a tree, 50 m 4.
• R1–R2: From the tree, go up to a ledge below the "Brov'" route, 60 m 5B.
• R2–R3: Climb up the corner formed by the wall and an overhanging rock; protection is hard to organize. The station is on a ledge on its own pitons, 35 m 6A+/5C, A1. R3–R4: From the station, go up and to the right into a cleft, bypassing "rattling" overhangs. Then follow the clefts, veering right at the top onto a ledge. The station is on a bolt and pitons. 60 m 5C. 4–5. From the station, start up the corner to the left for 5 m, then continue straight up. The terrain is rich but crumbling, with many unreliable blocks.
• Climb the inner corner (there's a bolt) to below an overhang
• Pass the overhang on pitons (pitons in place)

Supplement to the Route Description

Orlyonok NW 3A

Approach and descent path from the Orlyonok valley Approach to the Orlyonok 3A route via the NW ridge. Approximately 1.5 hours from the campsite at the upper lake Technical photo of the 3A Orlyonok NW route from the Orlyonok peak cirque

Description of the Descent from Orlyonok NW Peak

North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

169. Lekzyr Severnaya — Lekzyr Yuzhnaya

(combined route, E. Emelyanova, 4A cat. diff., fig. 24, 26). From the summit of Lekzyr Glavnaya (route 165, 166) descend along simple rocky Yuzhny ridge, then along shelves on its right side to the saddle of Yuzhny ridge. From the saddle descend on the left side of the ridge by 3–4 abseils 25–30 m and sport route to a platform. From the platform traverse right along snowy shelves, then along a narrow 20–25-meter couloir (chimney) and steep broken rocks to a platform on the saddle of the massif behind Bolshoy zhendarм. Make a bivouac on the platform. From Glavnaya summit 5–6 hours. From the platform — along simple rocks of the ridge, overcoming small rock towers head-on or

180. Svetgar East - West (combined route, G. Melia, category 4B difficulty, fig. 24, 27). From the summit Svetgar Main (route 179) rappelling 8-10 m. Along the simple destroyed snow-covered (cornices) rocky 250-300-meter Western ridge descend to the col under the East ridge of the summit Svetgar Central. On the col bivouac. From Main 1 hour. From the col along the simple snow-covered (cornices) East ridge ascend to the summit Svetgar Central. From Main 1.5-2 hours. From Central down 300-350 m along the ice-snow (cornices), then 60-80 m along the destroyed rocks of medium difficulty and 120-150 m along the wide ice-snow (cornices) Western ridge to a long col (cornices). From Central 2-3 hours. For the ascent to the West summit see route 177. From West 400-500 m down along the steep destroyed snow-covered (cornices) Western ridge. Overcoming "live" stones directly on the rocks of medium difficulty, three gendarmes, descend to the ice-snow col (cornice). On the col bivouac. From the previous bivouac 8-12 hours. From the col:

• 40-50 m up along the difficult wall to the shelf of the East tower of the gendarme "Dvuzubka";
• from the shelf bypass the tower of the gendarme along the difficult wall on the left "live" stones and exit to the isthmus under the ascent of the West tower. Along the simple sharp snow-covered 40-50-meter Western ridge ascend to the tower. From the bivouac site - 4-5 hours. From the West tower of the gendarme "Dvuzubka":
• 150-200 m down along the Western ridge to the isthmus under the gendarme;
• bypass the gendarme on the right along the shelf, behind it rappelling 30 m along the II ascent;

From the "Jailyk" alp camp along the right bank of the Adyr-su River to the cemetery. From the ruined corral, ascend via a trail to a large meadow with campsites and, veering right, continue on the trail to a long, steep ascent up a grassy slope. The trail then levels out, and we traverse the slope along it to two characteristic hills on the slope. At the saddle between the slope and the second hill, the trail turns right and upwards (route category 1 difficulty on Termen-bashi); a cairn is located here. From the cairn, continue traversing the slope without a trail, descending 15 m to a large talus slope resembling a scree. After the talus slope, the trail resumes, and along it, we ascend along the Sullukol River to a moraine and then to a lake. There are campsites available. The journey from the camp takes approximately 4 hours. From the lake, veer left to ascend a moraine ridge, and on the right-hand side (relative to the direction of travel) of the lateral gorge, exit onto the glacier. From the glacier, ascend via small talus slopes and steep, muddy moraine slopes to the base of Pik Stal. The journey from the lake takes about 2 hours. From the snow in the lowest part of the wall, ascend 20 m via moderately difficult rock climbing - a series of ledges - to an internal corner (category I difficulty). Then, ascend 40 m via the internal corner, which transitions into a chimney. The rocks are more challenging. The first 5 m are the most difficult (category 2 difficulty on a small ledge for one person). Continue as follows:

• Exit left into a crevice, ascending 40 m to a series of large and small ledges. Be cautious of loose rocks upon exiting onto the ledges!!!
• From there, ascend under an overhanging rock and then veer right (difficult climbing) behind a characteristic flake.
• From the flake, make a challenging 3-4 m ascent onto a large ledge.

Sarykol-Bashi 3B cat. sl. traverse height 4,100 m.

The Sarykol-Bashi peak is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge between the Granovskogo Pass (to the north) and the Mestiyisky Pass (to the south). From the hut, we head in the direction of the Granovskogo Pass. After reaching the pass, we go right along a steep snowy couloir, with the gendarme of the first peak remaining on the left. Then we move up along a vaguely expressed rocky ridge. Along the northern ridge of the first gendarme, whose upper part we traverse to the left, and down the broken rocks to a saddle. From the saddle, we climb up along a steep snowy ridge, crossing a small section of rocks. The ascent to the second gendarme is done by traversing to the right along a vaguely expressed slab. Crossing an icy couloir, we reach an internal corner, ascending to the left along difficult rocks. 8–10 m before the peak, there is a control cairn. Descent along simple rocks to a snowy saddle, followed by a steep ascent along a snowy ridge; we traverse to the left and up, and ascend to the eastern peak along simple rocks. After descending from the eastern peak, we cross a saddle and ascend to a wall. We pass the wall on the right side along an internal corner with careful belaying. Behind the wall, we move right along a ledge to a slab-like ridge. After passing several gendarmes, we reach the main peak. Further on the descent:

• We pass two gendarmes (from the second gendarme, we organize a rope descent).
• We successively cross two ruined rocky couloirs.
• We reach a snowfield that leads to the Mestiyisky Plateau. In bad weather, one should beware of thunderstorm discharges on the ridge. Time estimate:
• From the hut to the Granovskogo Pass — 1–1.5 hours