Sokol — 39

The "Malevolent Dwarf" 5A, 255 m 6B, A2 Lavrinenko A., Tushko T. (August 7, 2007)

The route starts 100 m to the right of the beginning of the approach to "Brov'" and "Gran'".

  • R0–R1: Easy climbing up the cleft to a tree, 50 m 4.
  • R1–R2: From the tree, go up to a ledge below the "Brov'" route, 60 m 5B.
  • R2–R3: Climb up the corner formed by the wall and an overhanging rock; protection is hard to organize. The station is on a ledge on its own pitons, 35 m 6A+/5C, A1.

R3–R4: From the station, go up and to the right into a cleft, bypassing "rattling" overhangs. Then follow the clefts, veering right at the top onto a ledge. The station is on a bolt and pitons. 60 m 5C.

4–5. From the station, start up the corner to the left for 5 m, then continue straight up. The terrain is rich but crumbling, with many unreliable blocks.

  • Climb the inner corner (there's a bolt) to below an overhang
  • Pass the overhang on pitons (pitons in place)
  • Continue straight up without traversing the ledge, as it doesn't help

The station is on the plateau, on its own gear. 50 m 6B, A2.

Soft steel pitons + nuts, stoppers, and cams were used. It's recommended to go with two ropes. The first ascent took 6 hours. The estimated time for the climb is 5 hours.

Sources

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