From the "Jailyk" alp camp along the right bank of the Adyr-su River to the cemetery. From the ruined corral, ascend via a trail to a large meadow with campsites and, veering right, continue on the trail to a long, steep ascent up a grassy slope. The trail then levels out, and we traverse the slope along it to two characteristic hills on the slope. At the saddle between the slope and the second hill, the trail turns right and upwards (route category 1 difficulty on Termen-bashi); a cairn is located here. From the cairn, continue traversing the slope without a trail, descending 15 m to a large talus slope resembling a scree.

After the talus slope, the trail resumes, and along it, we ascend along the Sullukol River to a moraine and then to a lake. There are campsites available. The journey from the camp takes approximately 4 hours.

From the lake, veer left to ascend a moraine ridge, and on the right-hand side (relative to the direction of travel) of the lateral gorge, exit onto the glacier. From the glacier, ascend via small talus slopes and steep, muddy moraine slopes to the base of Pik Stal. The journey from the lake takes about 2 hours. From the snow in the lowest part of the wall, ascend 20 m via moderately difficult rock climbing - a series of ledges - to an internal corner (category I difficulty).

Then, ascend 40 m via the internal corner, which transitions into a chimney. The rocks are more challenging. The first 5 m are the most difficult (category 2 difficulty on a small ledge for one person).

Continue as follows:

  • Exit left into a crevice, ascending 40 m to a series of large and small ledges. Be cautious of loose rocks upon exiting onto the ledges!!!
  • From there, ascend under an overhanging rock and then veer right (difficult climbing) behind a characteristic flake.
  • From the flake, make a challenging 3-4 m ascent onto a large ledge.

It is recommended to organize protection when exiting the flake onto the ledge from the flake itself. (There may be verglas).

From the ledge, ascend 5 m via a moderately difficult internal corner and then 80 m via straightforward rock climbing to exit onto the summit.

Descend 20 m back from the summit and organize a sport descent (one rope) to the right (relative to the direction of ascent) into a couloir of moderate steepness.

Descend the couloir to the base of the wall and then continue down to the glacier via the ascent route. The total descent time is 7-9 hours from the start of the route.

Possible campsites:

  1. at the lake
  2. on the glacier near a large boulder
  3. at the XXX years of alpinism pass (the pass to the right of Pik Stal at the level of the wall's base). Ensure thorough piton protection throughout the route!! img-0.jpeg

Sources

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