- Svetgar East - West (combined route, G. Melia, category 4B difficulty, fig. 24, 27). From the summit Svetgar Main (route 179) rappelling 8-10 m. Along the simple destroyed snow-covered (cornices) rocky 250-300-meter Western ridge descend to the col under the East ridge of the summit Svetgar Central. On the col bivouac. From Main 1 hour. From the col along the simple snow-covered (cornices) East ridge ascend to the summit Svetgar Central. From Main 1.5-2 hours. From Central down 300-350 m along the ice-snow (cornices), then 60-80 m along the destroyed rocks of medium difficulty and 120-150 m along the wide ice-snow (cornices) Western ridge to a long col (cornices). From Central 2-3 hours. For the ascent to the West summit see route 177.
From West 400-500 m down along the steep destroyed snow-covered (cornices) Western ridge. Overcoming "live" stones directly on the rocks of medium difficulty, three gendarmes, descend to the ice-snow col (cornice). On the col bivouac. From the previous bivouac 8-12 hours.
From the col:
- 40-50 m up along the difficult wall to the shelf of the East tower of the gendarme "Dvuzubka";
- from the shelf bypass the tower of the gendarme along the difficult wall on the left "live" stones and exit to the isthmus under the ascent of the West tower. Along the simple sharp snow-covered 40-50-meter Western ridge ascend to the tower. From the bivouac site - 4-5 hours.
From the West tower of the gendarme "Dvuzubka":
- 150-200 m down along the Western ridge to the isthmus under the gendarme;
- bypass the gendarme on the right along the shelf, behind it rappelling 30 m along the II ascent;
- further along the steep snow-covered rocks (cornices, "live" stones) with rappelling 40 m along the I ascent of the Western ridge;
- then along simple and medium difficulty rocks with small gendarmes of the 120-150-meter Western ridge descend to the snow-covered (cornice) col and along it approach under the ascent of the East ridge of the summit Marianna. From the previous bivouac site - 7-9 hours.
From here descend to the right to the Eastern branch of the Lekzyr glacier.