6104812
ASCENT REPORT
- Route — 1NW rock route. Peak height 1350 (Sablya Severnaia)
- Region: Subpolar Urals
- Category of difficulty: proposed 4A cat. diff.
- Route length, height difference: 800 m, 600 m
- Pitons placement — 0, Chocks — 50
- Movement hours: 12 h
- Leader: Poliakov Sergei Nikolaevich, 1st sports category. Participants: Khireev Gerasim Mikhailovich, 1st sports category; Aiugov Sergei Nikolaevich, 1st sports category.
- Coach: Poliakov Sergei Nikolaevich
- Approach to the route: August 4, 1991, 10:00
- Summit: August 4, 1991, 19:00
- Return: August 4, 1991, 22:00
- Federation of Alpinism of the Komi Republic. 1995.
Description of the ascent to peak 1350 (Sablya Severnaia) via 1NW ridge. First ascent.
From the base camp on the Lun-Vozh River, go straight up to the forest boundary. Then, go left, bypassing the Western ridge of Sablya Severnaia peak, and enter the Northern cirque. Bypass the lake on the left or right, and ascend the scree slope to the Khod Konem pass. From the pass, go up and to the right along the scree ledges and несложным стенкам 1NW ridge to the first big wall. Medium climbing. Reliable handholds. Then, along the ledge to the right, under the next wall. Medium climbing. The key section of the route follows:
- 30 m of difficult, hard climbing, including 5 m on artificial aids (TNS).
- Climb through a hole into a chimney.
- Ascend the chimney to a narrow, small saddle on the Eastern ridge.
- Then, follow the difficult, slab-like, steep ridge to reach the summit of Sablya Severnaia.
Descent is along the Western slope towards the lake under Sablya peak. In case of fog, descend in a 10–3 direction. Medium and large scree.
From the camp on Lun-Vozh River, it takes 12 hours.
Route scheme
(Sablya Severnaia)
- R1–R0: 280 m, 1–2 cat. diff., 30–40°
- R2–R1: 20 m, 4 cat. diff., 80°
- R3–R2: traverse 30 m, 3 cat. diff.
- R4–R3: 20 m, 5 cat. diff., 80°, A1
- R5–R4: 10 m, 2 cat. diff., 50°
- R6–R5: Rappel 40 m
- R7–R6: 3–4 cat. diff., 30 m, 50°
- R8–R7: 4+ cat. diff., 30 m, 60°
- R9–R8: 60 m, 1 cat. diff., 20°