Sarykol-Bashi 3B cat. sl. traverse height 4,100 m.

The Sarykol-Bashi peak is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge between the Granovskogo Pass (to the north) and the Mestiyisky Pass (to the south).

From the hut, we head in the direction of the Granovskogo Pass. After reaching the pass, we go right along a steep snowy couloir, with the gendarme of the first peak remaining on the left. Then we move up along a vaguely expressed rocky ridge. Along the northern ridge of the first gendarme, whose upper part we traverse to the left, and down the broken rocks to a saddle. From the saddle, we climb up along a steep snowy ridge, crossing a small section of rocks. The ascent to the second gendarme is done by traversing to the right along a vaguely expressed slab. Crossing an icy couloir, we reach an internal corner, ascending to the left along difficult rocks. 8–10 m before the peak, there is a control cairn. Descent along simple rocks to a snowy saddle, followed by a steep ascent along a snowy ridge; we traverse to the left and up, and ascend to the eastern peak along simple rocks. After descending from the eastern peak, we cross a saddle and ascend to a wall. We pass the wall on the right side along an internal corner with careful belaying. Behind the wall, we move right along a ledge to a slab-like ridge. After passing several gendarmes, we reach the main peak.

Further on the descent:

• We pass two gendarmes (from the second gendarme, we organize a rope descent).
• We successively cross two ruined rocky couloirs.
• We reach a snowfield that leads to the Mestiyisky Plateau.

In bad weather, one should beware of thunderstorm discharges on the ridge.

Time estimate:

• From the hut to the Granovskogo Pass — 1–1.5 hours
• From the Granovskogo Pass to the Mestiyisky Pass — 8–10 hours. Equipment for 4 people: main rope 2 × 30 m, auxiliary rope 4 × 5 m, rock pitons 5 pcs., ice pitons 2 pcs.

SARYKOL-BASHI

1. CONTROL CAIRN
2. P. MARAASH
3. WALL. P. ROAKA
4. Z. MARAASH
5. GRANDJE. ROAKH.
6. EASTERN PEAK (TUIY)
7. WALL, RAYBO. NUADI.

Peak. Jet

Section between

East. peak and peak.