169. Lekzyr Severnaya — Lekzyr Yuzhnaya

(combined route, E. Emelyanova, 4A cat. diff., fig. 24, 26). From the summit of Lekzyr Glavnaya (route 165, 166) descend along simple rocky Yuzhny ridge, then along shelves on its right side to the saddle of Yuzhny ridge. From the saddle descend on the left side of the ridge by 3–4 abseils 25–30 m and sport route to a platform. From the platform traverse right along snowy shelves, then along a narrow 20–25-meter couloir (chimney) and steep broken rocks to a platform on the saddle of the massif behind Bolshoy zhendarм. Make a bivouac on the platform. From Glavnaya summit 5–6 hours.

From the platform — along simple rocks of the ridge, overcoming small rock towers head-on or bypassing them along moderately difficult rocks. Then:

• along shelves on the left side of the ridge;
• abseil to the saddle below Severnaya ridge of Lekzyr Uzlovaya summit.

From the saddle ascend along moderately difficult steep rocks of Severnaya ridge to Lekzyr Uzlovaya summit. From the bivouac site — 3.5–4 hours.

From Uzlovaya descend along simple rocks of Yuzhny ridge below a rock tower, which is bypassed on the right along a steep ice-snow slope, and behind it descend to the col below Severnaya ridge of Lekzyr Yuzhnaya summit.

From the col ascend along simple slabby, then easy rocks of Severnaya ridge to Lekzyr Yuzhnaya summit. From Uzlovaya — 2 hours 30 min.