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Route Description: траверс
Report on the team's ascent to the Telpos-Iz peaks (Northern Urals) with a detailed description of the traverse of the Eastern and Western peaks.
Report
ON ASCENDING TELPOS-IZ EASTERN TELPOS-IZ WESTERN TRAVERSE 2A CAT. BY THE TEAM OF F.K.I.P.GP (UKHTA) FOR THE PERIOD FROM MARCH 25, 2023, TO MARCH 25, 2023
I. Ascent Passport
| №№ | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Yakimenko Oksana Anatolyevna, MS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Goloviznin Roman Vladimirovich, zn; Manin Alexey Dmitriyevich, zn |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Badich Nikolay Yevgenyevich |
| 1.4 | Organization | Federation of Clubs of Research and Travel of the Trade Union Movement of Gazprom Corporation |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object |
Route Description: из Лавинного кулуара 1-му кф. В стены
Description of the first ascent of a combined route of 3B category of complexity to the summit of Maly Vudyavrchorr in the Khibiny Mountains.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
note 105 10/11-92, clause 18 for 3B category Zazetaev
- Ascent class — combined
- Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains.
- Peak, its height, and route — Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; from the "Avalanche" couloir to the I buttress of Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; 1068.2 m.
- Anticipated difficulty category — 3B category.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m.
Length of sections by category:
- wall II — 500 m
Route Description: 4-му кф. В стены
Description of the ascent route to Mt. Maly Vudyavrchorr (Khibiny Mountains) via the 4th buttress of the Eastern wall, difficulty category 3B.
Ascent Log
- Ascent category — combined
- Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains
- Peak, its height, and route — Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; via the 4th counterfort of the wall of Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; 1068 m.
- Estimated difficulty category — 3B category
- Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Walls: Length of sections, category: 2 — 400 m
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr via the eastern ridge on 13.04.2019, description of the route category 1B complexity.
Murmansk Region Alpinism Federation
Report
on the ascent to the summit Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr via the eastern ridge on April 13, 2019 (first ascent - Vernus T.V., 2003, route classified as 1B)
Ascent Passport
- Murmansk region, Khibiny.
- Maly Vudyavrchorr, 1068 m, via the Eastern ridge (Vernus T.V., 2003). 1B category of difficulty.
- Nature of the route: snow
- Height difference: 700 m
Route Description: левому ребру В стены
Description of a combined route, category 3А, to Mt. Maly Vudyavrchorr via L-spur of W-wall of Mt. Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr in Khibiny mountains.
Climbing Passport
I. Climbing category - combined. 2. Climbing area - Khibiny Mountains 3. Peak, its height, and route - Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr, via the Left Edge of the Eastern wall of Mt. Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr; 1068.2 m. 4. Expected difficulty category - 3A cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 750 m. Length of sections: 1 - 120 m 2 - 450 m 3 - 100 m
Route Description: левой части правого бастиона В стены
Report on climbing route 1B to Vud'yavrchorr via the left part of the right bastion in the wall, with a detailed description of the ascent and recommendations.
Route on Vudyavrcorr (1B) via the left part of the right bastion in the wall, 4A ("chestnaya devushka")
View from below: the route line, pitches, and belay stations.
The idea to go on this climb during the winter season had been ripening for a long time. The description had been lying in my folder since last year. Back then, the conditions were bad, and we didn't end up doing it.
This year, everything was different. I immediately decided that we would go calmly, with processing, over 2 days. The route was well-suited for this:
- up to R9, almost everything is on snow;
- then a cave;
- further, 6.5 ropes — the rock part.
Moreover, it was highly motivating that the report was promised to be published in St. Petersburg: there was no need to rack our brains over who to take, with whom to meet, and on which routes — we could work calmly. As we were gathering, adjustments were made: the team composition changed and shrunk, but overall, nothing prevented us from starting the route.
On April 5, we climbed the Avalanche Couloir. We examined the route from below and above, took photos. The first impression: there's a lot of snow. But there's no pronounced overhanging snow above this part of the bastion.
Route Description: кулуару «зигзаг» В стены ц. цирка
Description of the first ascent of a combined route, category 2A, via the "Zigzag" couloir on the Eastern wall of the Takhtarvumchorr ridge in the Khibiny Mountains.
Ascent Log
I. Ascent class — ice and snow. 2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains. 3. Peak, its height, and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via "Zigzag" couloir on the wall of Takhtarvumchorr ridge, 1154 m. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A category difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Length of sections, category difficulty:
- I — 500 m
- II — 500 m
- III — 100 m Average slope: overall 50°
Route Description: С стене В гребня
Description of the first ascent of a combined route of category 2B difficulty level, traversing the center of the northern face of the eastern ridge of the Takhtarvumchorr ridge in the Khibiny Mountains.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent class — combined
- Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains
- Peak, its height and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via the center of the North face of the East ridge of Takhtarvumchorr ridge, 1143.5 m
- Estimated difficulty category — 2B category
- Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m.
Walls:
Length of sections, difficulty category: II — 800 m, III — 80 m
Average wall steepness: overall 60°
Route Description: центру С стены В гребня
Description of the first ascent of a combined route category 2B along the northern wall of the eastern ridge of the Takhtarumchorr ridge in the Khibiny Mountains.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — combined
- Ascent region — Khibiny Mountains.
- Peak, its height and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, along the N wall of the E ridge of Takhtarvumchorr ridge; 1143.5 m.
- Estimated difficulty category — 2B cat. diff.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m. walls — Route length: rock/snow and ice. II — 350 m
Route Description: С гребню с л. Шабой
Report on the traverse of Peak Engels and Peak Marx on the Western Pamir in 1970, category 6B difficulty level, with a detailed description of the route and actions of the participants.
Appendix
to the Regulations on the USSR Championship in Alpinism for 1970
ASCENT DOCUMENTATION
of the ascent made in the 1970 USSR Alpinism Championship I. Ascent category: Traverse 2. Ascent area: Southwestern Pamir 3. Ascent route: with indication of peaks and their heights:
- Via the northern wall:
- Peak Engels 6510 m
- Peak Marx 6726 m