Route on Vudyavrcorr (1B) via the left part of the right bastion in the wall, 4A ("chestnaya devushka")

View from below: the route line, pitches, and belay stations.

The idea to go on this climb during the winter season had been ripening for a long time. The description had been lying in my folder since last year. Back then, the conditions were bad, and we didn't end up doing it.

This year, everything was different. I immediately decided that we would go calmly, with processing, over 2 days. The route was well-suited for this:

up to R9, almost everything is on snow;
then a cave;
further, 6.5 ropes — the rock part.

Moreover, it was highly motivating that the report was promised to be published in St. Petersburg: there was no need to rack our brains over who to take, with whom to meet, and on which routes — we could work calmly. As we were gathering, adjustments were made: the team composition changed and shrunk, but overall, nothing prevented us from starting the route.

On April 5, we climbed the Avalanche Couloir. We examined the route from below and above, took photos. The first impression: there's a lot of snow. But there's no pronounced overhanging snow above this part of the bastion.

April 6. We set out early. The weather was pleasant, despite the forecast. We took 10 ropes and gear for processing the snowy part. The first joy came immediately: the snow was holding. There was a lot of it, and it wasn't powdery like last year, nor was it firn: it was normal, viscous, workable snow.

R1 — on the left side of the "throat" (looking at the photo, you'll immediately understand where it is).
Further, approximately 45 m along the rocks, the belay station is on a pronounced ridge, next to a snow-covered stone on the right.
Further, a diagonal ascent to the right onto a pronounced rock counterforce. To it, approximately 58

Cave on R5 (R9 according to O. Shumilov's description)

15 m — we extended the rope.
It's located half a rope length above the entrance to the couloir, but it's the right path: there's relief for organizing a good belay station.
I found a rappel loop there — meaning it's already R5 on our route according to O. Shumilov's description.

To enter the couloir, we had to rappel 15 m and swing through a snow-covered rock ridge. Here, radio communication was lost, but Kostya clearly read out the actions — no stops occurred, although we extended the rope again.

After passing through the couloir's "throat," I spent a long time digging around the "ram's foreheads" in search of something resembling relief. Eventually, I luckily stumbled upon "hourglasses" in a wide horizontal crack on the left wall.

Further, the overhanging cornice on the right was clearly visible, under which we had to climb: R9 according to Shumilov's description — our goal for the day. An excellent cave with a magnificent view. In the summer, it must be a pleasure to spend the night.

In total, on the first day, from R1, we fixed 5 ropes. I went another half rope further: to the right along the ledge and up into a snow-filled internal corner. We didn't bring ice axes, so I fixed the rope on a good anchor and returned. We started descending.

7.04. All night, snow was falling. In the cirque, there's fog. We move under the route almost blindly, but we find the ledge with the left rucksack immediately. We climb up the fixed ropes: the ropes are buried under 20 cm of snow, or even more.

Of course, we wanted sunshine — especially since the route is vertical and has great views. On the other hand, nothing distracts us from work.

I spend a long time fiddling with the pitons, finally, I make progress.

I climb up the fixed ropes to yesterday's point. Further, I need to dig a lot.

The internal corner isn't too convenient for pure climbing, but with protection, everything is comfortable: on the left, in the depth, a crack for medium-sized stoppers is uncovered. I climb onto the ledge.

Here, an illusion of options arises, but I need to climb:

straight up through a small wall
further, bypassing the wall on the right
under the next light-colored wall

On it, there are more "hourglasses" — a belay station. The rope length turns out to be...

The weather is approximately 52. From there, to the left along the ledge into a chimney, up the chimney. Further — not the most pleasant place: bypassing the cornice on the shoulder to the left (for confidence, it's good to place the first cam in the crack under the cornice), exit onto a steep snowy ridge.

Along the ridge, carefully — into the next chimney. Here, ice starts to appear, moss on the ledges: with axes, it's reliable, I pass quickly. On exit, a place for a belay station on the left. Again, I climb out for the entire rope length.

Further, along the ridge, I climb up, keeping to the left: there, a path is visible — under a small wall and further along it into a large chimney. Not the most reliable section: scraping along the rocks, but the relief is all under snow — stopping and digging cracks for protection isn't appealing. I do the necessary minimum.

I approach a narrow chimney with a monolithic wall on the left — the one I was holding onto: with relief, I hammer in an anchor. Further, relief appears, and it becomes comfortable again.

I pass:

a small chimney,
enter a large one — it's convenient to climb on the right through the rubble.

The rope is all used up 3 m before exiting onto a huge snowy ledge. Climbing back into the chimney isn't appealing: I throw a loop onto a huge stone at the exit from the chimney. Belay station. The guys will remember me kindly, but further under the wall on foot — it will be possible to move there.

I climb the ledge. Rocks under a thick layer of frost. It's not entirely clear where to climb: I choose a small couloir on the left. I make a protection point, take out the description.

We've passed three rope lengths of the crux, meaning there are approximately:

four sections of category III,
the pre-summit ridge.

I climb into the couloir: it's all in ice — climbing with axes is a pleasure. At the exit, a snow plug — I can't manage to dig through to the rock. I trample the ledge and start systematically digging a trench towards me. I achieve a positive incline and start crawling up...

And now, imagine my surprise when, having driven the axes into the snow and pulled myself up, I saw the plateau!

In total, we got 3.5 rope lengths of the rock part. And 8.5 in total. The route was very enjoyable: climbing was a pleasure, protection was excellent, and there were convenient places for belay stations. Moreover, the route is: