Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — combined
2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains
3. Peak, its height, and route — Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; via the 4th counterfort of the wall of Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr; 1068 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B category
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Walls: Length of sections, category: 2 — 400 m 3 — 200 m 4 — 60 m 5 — 40 m Average steepness: overall 65°
6. Pitons driven: for rock protection — 15 chocks — 5 ice screws — 2 bolt hangers — 4 Of which used to create artificial holds — 2
7. Number of climbing hours — 7 hours
8. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:
   1. Proskura Alexander Yakovlevich — leader, 1st sports category
   2. Serebryakov Yuri Alekseevich — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
9. Team coach — Shumilov O.I., Master of Sports, 1st category instructor
10. Dates: April 18, 1992

August 22, 1992 Second ascent of the route 3A–3B category via the 4th counterfort of the Eastern wall of Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr. 1068 m. First ascent on April 18, 1992.

First ascent team:

1. Proskura A.Ya.
2. Sokolov E.I.

Second ascent team:

1. Proskura A.Ya. — 1st sports category — 3rd category instructor
2. Serebryakov Yu.A. — Candidate for Master of Sports — 2nd category instructor R–R — 250–300 m — snow, firn — 50°. We reach a rocky outcrop, control cairn — "can on a piton". Belay via ice axe, on rock — piton belay. R–R — 40 m — snow-covered sections, firn 50–60°, belay via ice axe. R–R — 40 m — snow-covered rocks, Khibiny rime (thickness 20–40 cm). Piton belay. Above, belay via ice axe, steepness 60–70°. R–R — 10 m — firn, exit to rocks of 3rd category 50°. R–R — 50 m — snow-covered rocks with 60% steepness, piton belay, via ice axe. R–R — wall 10 m. We bypass via a ledge to the right and up a chimney — an inner corner — in the upper part a cork (chimney — 40 m) — 2 pitons. R–R — via snow-covered rocks 40 m. We reach a horizontal ledge, after the ledge a wall 5 m — with 80° steepness. Then we reach a large horizontal ledge. After the ledge, a wall — 40 m (5th category) — 80–90% (verglas, rime). Difficult climbing, the upper part is traversed using artificial holds. At 30 m under a cornice, two bolt hangers are driven, on one of them to the left — control cairn №3. Then a ledge, after the ledge a wall — 10 m — to the left in a crack more difficult climbing, 2 bolt hangers driven (one artificial hold). Afterwards, up via a 5-meter chimney on solid firn — 80–100 m — we reach the summit of Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr. On the plateau, the 4th control cairn is laid out from stones. Route length — 700 m. 15 rock pitons and 4 bolt hangers driven (total — 15 pieces).

Equipment

1. Main rope — 1 × 40 m — 12 mm — Germany — 1 piece 1 × 40 m — 8 mm — Germany — 1 piece
2. Expendable cordelette — 5 m.
3. Ice axes — 2 pieces.
4. Rock pitons — 18 pieces.
5. Drill bits — 2 pieces.
6. Chocks — 6 pieces.
7. Ice screws — 2 pieces.
8. Crampons — 2 pairs.
9. Carabiners — 25 pieces.
10. Bolt hangers — 10 pieces.
11. First aid kit — 1 set
12. Down jackets, warm clothing — 2 sets
13. Backpacks — 2 pieces
14. Skis with poles — 2 pairs
15. Windproof masks — 2 pieces.
16. Ski goggles — 2 pieces.
17. Tent — 1 piece.
18. Harness — 2 pieces.
19. Extension loops — 5 pieces.
20. Self-belay loops — 2 pieces.
21. Stove — 1 piece.
22. (Fur) mittens — 2 pairs
23. Matches, candles — 2 pieces.
24. Lantern — 1 piece.
25. Pot — 1 piece.
26. Clamps — 4 pieces.
27. Helmets — 2 pieces.
28. Chock removal device — 1 piece.
29. Rock hammer — 1 piece.
30. Ladder — 3 pieces.
31. Thermos — 1 piece.