Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category - combined.

Climbing area - Khibiny Mountains
Peak, its height, and route - Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr, via the Left Edge of the Eastern wall of Mt. Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr; 1068.2 m.
Expected difficulty category - 3A cat. diff.
Route characteristics: height difference - 750 m.

Length of sections: 1 - 120 m 2 - 450 m 3 - 100 m 4 - 12 m 5 - 38 m Average steepness: overall 60°

Pitons hammered: for rock protection - 8 chocks - 3 ice screws - 0 Including used for artificial protection - 1
Number of climbing hours - 9 h 25 min, 25 km.
Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualification:
Vashenyuk Eduard Vladimirovich - leader, Master of Sports
Proskura Alexander Yakovlevich - participant, 1st sports category
Team coach - Shumilov O.I., Master of Sports, 1st category instructor
Dates: March 14, 1992

March 14, 1992 Description of the first ascent of the 3A category difficulty route, combined, polar via the Left Edge of the Eastern wall of Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr. Second ascent on September 13, 1992.

Consisted of:

Proskura A.Ya. - 1st sports category, 3rd category alpine instructor.
Vashenyuk E.V. - Master of Sports, 2nd category alpine instructor.

8:55 Departed from km 25. Arrived at the Mt. Vudyavrchorr cirque at 10:40, by the lake.

(R0) From the lake, ascended via snow to the base of the gully - 11:24 (via scree in summer), 100-200 m at 30°. Ascent from the lake - 25 min.

(R1) Then - 60 m at 60° via smooth rocks, with formed ice of 3rd-4th cat. diff. (two channel pitons hammered), (R2) exit to a snow shelf (scree shelf in summer), (R3) After 120 m to the base of the edge, steepness 20°-25° - 1st cat. diff., (R4) 12 m at 70° - 4th cat. diff., exit to the ridge - start of the route.

(R5) On the wall - control cairn #1, can on a piton.

(R6) Along the ridge - 25 m.

(R7) Wall - 3 m - 5th cat. diff. (R8) Exit to a niche. Before the niche - a wide shelf. One channel piton hammered. Protection via a rock outcrop.

(R9) Up and left - 40 m - 3rd cat. diff.

(R10) Then, up along the left side of the inner corner with a chimney - 15 m, climbing of above average difficulty (artificial protection, channel piton). Station at a rock outcrop.

(R11) Then, up and left 40 m via rocks of average difficulty, 3rd-4th cat. diff. (one chock). Station (two channel pitons).

(R12) 35 m up - complex climbing at 85°-90° (two chocks, one artificial protection). Exit to a platform on the ridge.

(R13) On the wall - control cairn #2, can on a piton.

(R14) From the platform, bypassing the wall to the left via rocks of average and above average difficulty, 3rd-4th cat. diff. - entry to the ridge (40 m).

(R15) Staying on the left side of the ridge - 30 m up via destroyed rocks covered with snow, towards the top of the tower. Station - 2 channel pitons.

(R16) Ascent to the vertical tower via the wall at 70°, via rocks of average and above average difficulty, 3rd UIAA category. Station at rock outcrops.

(R17) From the station, up and left via rocks of average and above average difficulty - exit to the top of the tower (40 m). Platform.

From the platform - 15 m via destroyed rocks - exit to the Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr plateau - 17:55.

(R18) Above the platform - control cairn #3. End of the route. Approximately 3A cat. diff. Hammered - 8 pitons. Chocks - 3 pcs. Route length - 700 m.

Equipment: