Ascent Log

I. Ascent class — ice and snow. 2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains. 3. Peak, its height, and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via "Zigzag" couloir on the wall of Takhtarvumchorr ridge, 1154 m. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A category difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Length of sections, category difficulty:

• I — 500 m
• II — 500 m
• III — 100 m

Average slope: overall 50°

6. Pitons hammered in:

• for rock belay — 8
• chocks — 3
• ice screws — 4 Including those used to create artificial holds —

7. Number of climbing hours — from 25 km to the summit — 5 hours, from the foot — 3 hours.
8. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

• Shumilov Oleg Ivanovich — leader, Master of Sports
• Proskura Alexander Yakovlevich — participant, 1st sports category

9. Team coach — Shumilov O.I., Master of Sports, 1st category instructor.
10. Dates: February 22, 1992 Takhtarvumchorr ridge, 2A category difficulty route via "Zigzag" couloir (Khibiny).

Description of the first ascent of the 2A category difficulty route, combined, polar. "Via 'Zigzag' couloir on the Eastern wall of Takhtarvumchorr ridge (or 'a gift to the incubator')".

February 22, 1992. Consisting of:

1. Shumilov O.I. — Master of Sports, 1st category instructor.
2. Proskura A.Ya. — 1st sports category, 3rd category instructor.

Departure from 25 km at 9:00. Approach to the second circus from Geografov pass to the route, to the right of the "three belts" zone.

Climbed from the circus to the couloir 500 m, and after 100 m through the couloir:

• On the right, on the rock, control cairn №1 (can on a piton) — 12:53.

Belay via ice axe, piton belay. 2–3 ropes up the couloir:

• 2nd control cairn — 13:34.

Cairn near the plug (can on a piton) on the right. 500 m through the couloir: snow slope steepness up to 60°, ice under the snow. Belay either via ice axe or along the right wall — piton belay. Couloir width 10 m, sandwiched between sheer walls. Walls are mostly vertical, pitons are well-placed, and chocks are used.

From the second half — especially thorough belay, as a free roll-out from the couloir is impossible.

The plug (rock) is bypassed on the right. Closer to spring, a bergschrund forms at the bottom (8–7 m deep). After the plug, closer to spring, follow the crevice between the right wall and the snow.

There are two control cairns in the couloir (cans on pitons). At the exit from the couloir, 10 m from the edge of the couloir, a stone cairn is laid out — 3rd control cairn — in a can-cairn.

Descent first to the right along the plateau, and then down a very gentle counterfort. The counterfort is clearly visible when approaching the route. The route for this category is quite psychological, vertical snow walls may be encountered, which are passed with the help of ice axes.

Backup descent — descent via the ascent route, or along the plateau to Geografov pass.

Route length — 1100 m. Hammered in:

• 8 pitons
• 3 chocks
• 4 ice screws

Equipment:

1. Main ropes: 1 × 40 m / 12 mm (FRG) — 1 pc., 1 × 40 m / 8 mm (FRG) — 1 pc.
2. Disposable cord — 5 m; ice axes — 2 pcs.
3. Ice hammer — 1 pc.
4. Rock hammer — 1 pc.
5. Rock pitons — 10 pcs.
6. Ice screws — 2 pcs.
7. Crampons — 2 pairs.
8. Carabiners — 15 pcs.
9. First aid kit, matches, candles — set.
10. Down jackets, warm clothing — 2 sets.
11. Backpacks — 2 pcs.
12. Skis, ski poles — 2 pairs.
13. Windproof masks — 2 pcs.
14. Ski goggles — 2 pcs.
15. Tent — 1 pc.
16. Belay harness — 2 pcs.
17. Extension loops — 5 pcs.
18. Self-belay loops — 2 pcs.
19. Ladders — 3 pcs.
20. Primus stove, pot, thermoses — 3 pcs.
21. Fur gloves — 2 pairs, flashlights — 2 pcs.
22. Cord for pulling out pitons — 1 pc.
23. Set of chocks — 10 pcs., shovel — 1 pc.
24. Helmets — 2 pcs.