Ascent Passport

Climb Category: Rock (Combined) Peak, its height, and ascent route: Bolshoy Igizak via N wall 4100 m (via cleft) Estimated Difficulty Category: 4A (35) Route Characteristics:

• Height difference: 350 m
• Average steepness: 50°
• Length of sections:
  • I: 200 m
  • II: none

REPORT

First ascent of the Left part of the West face of Guillaumet peak, 2579 m. (Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia, Argentina) March 8, 2012, Yekaterinburg 2012

Contents

1. Climbing passport ... 3
2. Tactical and technical actions of the team ... 4
3. Area map-scheme ... 5
4. Panorama of the area ... 6
5. General photo of the peak ... 7
6. Drawn profile of the route ... 8
7. Technical photo ... 9

Report

Teams from Sverdlovsk Region

On the ice-snow "ramp" of the East wall of Poincenot peak, 3002 m (Fitz-Roy massif, Patagonia, Argentina)

February 11, 2012

Russian Championship 2012. High-altitude technical class, Yekaterinburg, 2012.

Ascent Passport

1. Mountain system: Patagonia (Argentina). Valley: Fitz-Roy massif (Fitz-Roy). Peak name: Poincenot, 3002 m. (The peak is not in the classification table)
2. Route name: Whillans–Cochrane via the ice-snow ramp of the East wall

Peak Gora Barkova (1320.8) Route: via the western slope Approximate complexity category: 1Бз Leader: Goletarov A. Subpolar Urals, Rossomakha mountain range Section in CMGA — 8.3. E-mail — mr.zhur1958@mail.ru

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to the peak Barkova (1320.8) via the route: "Along the western slope." The complexity level is approximately 1Б category (winter) at the alpinist event "Severnaya Vertikal" (joint project of JSC "Severgaztrans" and NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'") in 2016 (Class "First Ascent"). Region: Northwestern Federal District of the Russian Federation, Komi Republic.

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3.56 Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain massif, Nyrdvomen-Shor stream valley.
2. Name of the peak: 1159.0 (Dinozavr Glavny) height: 1159.0 m. Route: western part of the northern wall
3. Category of difficulty: 2B
4. Character of the route — combined
5. Height difference of the route: 890 m
6. Total length of the route — 4300 m, technical part — 630 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of difficulty:

Route Description

1. Climbing type — combined.
2. Climbing area — Rai-Iz massif, Polar Urals.
3. Peak, its height, and route — 1159 m (1154 m — according to other sources). Via the center of the eastern slope, then along the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 1B cat. diff. (z).
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Length of sections by difficulty categories:
   • 1 — 1500 m
   • 2 — 200 m
   • 3 — 10–15 m
   • Average steepness — 40°.

Climbing Passport

prot. No. 150524/11-97 p. 33,183, to Zuatoul

1. Route: combined, winter, Karpinsky - Narodnaya traverse
2. Region: Subpolar Urals, Chesledovateysky ridge
3. Cat. difficulty: 1B(3)
4. Route length, height difference: 15000 m; 900 m
5. Piton installation
6. Moving hours: 7-9 hours
7. Leader: Yeremkin Mikhail Alekseyevich, Syktyvkar, Dimitrova, 20-25 Team members: Polyakov Sergey Nikolayevich, Rochev Nikolay Vasilyevich, Votyakov Anatoly Borisovich, Belozerov Ivan Nikolayevich, Dumin Igor Alexandrovich.

Northern part of the Polar Urals —

Transpolar Urals. Maly Pailyudyansky Ridge. Summit — 906 (Oshvozh-Iz).

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3. Northern part of the Polar Urals (Transpolar Urals), Maly Pailyudyansky Ridge.
2. Name of the summit: 906 (Oshvozh-Iz)
3. Height: 906 m
4. Route: via the north-eastern ridge
5. Category of difficulty: 1B cat. diff.

Ascent Log

1. Polar Urals, southern part.
2. Mt. Payer (1472 m), via the southern ridge.
3. First ascent, category 2A difficulty.
4. The route is combined.
5. Height difference — 500 m. Route length — 910 m. Average slope:

• main part — 50°,
• entire route — 35°.

6. Pitons used on the route:

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. South-West Pamir, Shabo valley.
3. Peak Engels via the north wall (Gaas route, 1974). 2nd ascent in 1976. 3rd ascent.
4. 6B category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
5. Height difference — 1950 m. (1560 m). Main part height difference — 1150 m (b.sh – ridge). Length — 2305 m. Length of 6A and 6B sections — 365 m. Average steepness: