Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3.56

Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain massif, Nyrdvomen-Shor stream valley.

2. Name of the peak: 1159.0 (Dinozavr Glavny)

height: 1159.0 m. Route: western part of the northern wall

3. Category of difficulty: 2B
4. Character of the route — combined
5. Height difference of the route: 890 m
6. Total length of the route — 4300 m, technical part — 630 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of difficulty:

1 cat. diff. — 1 section — 700 m, 2 cat. diff. — 3 sections — 500 m, 3 cat. diff. — 2 sections — 130 m

4 cat. diff. — 0 sections — 0 m, 5 cat. diff. — 0 sections — 0 m, 6 cat. diff. — 0 m

8. Average steepness: main part of the route — 45°.

total route — 55°. 9. Pitons used: Total used on the route:

• rock pitons — 30,
• chocks — 32,
• stationary bolt hangers — 0,
• ITO — 0,
• removable bolt hangers — 0. Left "pitons" on the route: total — 4; including bolt hangers — 0.

10. Start of the route — 5:00, June 27, 2011

Reached the summit — 14:00, June 27, 2011. Returned to the base camp — 16:00, June 27, 2011 g

11. Team's travel time: — 11 hours.
12. Team leader: L. Mach (2nd sports category in mountaineering, Candidate Master of Sports in rock climbing, Moscow).

Team members: A. Goletarov (2nd sports category, Inta).

13. Coach: Zhuravlev Sergey Vasilyevich, title — Candidate Master of Sports, 1st category instructor-methodologist.

Description of the peak

Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny) — one of the peaks in the Raiiz mountain massif, located in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug (YaNAO), Tyumen Oblast, Ural Federal District, Russian Federation, on the eastern slopes of the Polar Urals, northwest of the Raiiz mountain massif, in the Nyrdvomen-Shor stream valley.

Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny):

• a clearly expressed mountain of the Raiiz massif, easily identifiable, visible from the Eletskaya, Polarny Urals, and 110 km halt stations;
• has an unofficial, but well-established name in the tourist and mountaineering community;
• is the most popular object for training and sports ascents in the Polar Urals;
• has multiple routes leading to the summit, ranging from 1B to 4A category of difficulty.

The northern wall is orographically distinct and easily identifiable by its appearance — it is the steepest part of peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny), with its central part bounded by rock ridges to the east and west; the peripheral (eastern and western) parts of the wall are more gentle.

Description of the route

The route "Via the western part of the northern wall" — a characteristic training and educational combined route of 2B category of difficulty, with a full range of rock, snow, and ice obstacles corresponding to routes of this level.

Completing this route has not only aesthetic but also practical training value, as it allows for the practice of techniques such as:

• belaying;
• self-belaying on rock and snow-ice terrain.

Equipment

For a climb with a training and sports group of 6 people (5 participants + instructor), the following special equipment is required on the route:

Personal:

• Standard issue
• Crampons
• Ice axe

Group:

• Main rope 10 mm — 3×50 m
• Rock hammer — 2 pcs.
• Rock pitons — 16 pcs.
• Ice axe — 1 pc.
• Chocks — 12 pcs.
• Ice screws — 3 pcs.
• Quickdraws — 10 pcs.
• Slings — 10 pcs.

Approach

The ascent starts from the "Delta Nyrdvomen-Shora" campsite.

Initially:

• Ford the Nyrdvomen-Shor stream to the left bank.

Then:

• Ascend via the hillocks and mountain-tundra slope to the snowy couloir.
• Ascend via the snow, leaving the green bald peak to the left, to the base of the western ridge of the northern wall.
• Reach the destroyed ridge.
• Ascend via the medium-block talus and simple destroyed rocks to the "tile" slabs.
• Organize a belay station under the slabs. There is a convenient area for setting up a belay.

Technical part

The route begins with the passage of inclined "tile" slabs. Subjective rockfall hazard — small and medium-sized stones lie on the ledges.

Then:

• exit to the rock shoulder under the rock ridge of the western edge;
• traverse right along the rack to a weakly expressed rock ridge;
• ascend along the rock ridge under the overhang.

The key to the route: traverse under the overhang with a descent into the rock couloir. Technically difficult climbing on monolithic rocks, including a traverse along an inclined ledge (10 m) with a descent — a psychologically challenging section.

After passing the key:

• ascend via the rock couloir to the pre-summit ridge;
• exit to the summit of the rock tower of the western rock massif via a jagged rock ridge, which becomes more gentle and turns into a large-block talus closer to the summit.

The summit is marked with a triangulation sign.

Descent from the summit.

Descent from the summit can be done:

• First option — via the western ridge and western couloir (1B category route).
• Second option — via the southeast descent couloir (non-categorized).

Routes on the northern wall

To the central couloir 9 and peak 1060 "Krest". (Combined). To the eastern edge of the northern wall on peak 1159 Glavny — 4A category (Rock). Via the western part of the northern wall on peak 1159 Dinozavr Glavny. Proposed — 2B (Combined). Ascent in 2011.

Via the western couloir of the wall on peak 1159 m Glavny — 2A category ice.

• R1. Ascend via mountain-tundra slopes to the lower part of the western edge of the northern wall. Simple terrain. Slope. Length — 1500 m. Steepness — 30°. Non-categorized. Simultaneous movement. Used/left: Pitons — 0/0 pcs., Chocks — 0/0 pcs. R1–R2. Ascend via the destroyed rock ridge to the belay station location. Rocky talus, destroyed rock ridge. Length — 700 m. Steepness — 30–35°. Level of difficulty — 1 cat. diff. Simultaneous movement. At point R3 — a platform — belay station location. Used/left: Pitons — 0/0 pcs., Chocks — 0/0 pcs. Section R2–R3. Ascend via the "tile" ridge, composed of inclined slabs. Length — 80 m. Steepness — ... Level of difficulty — 2 cat. diff. Simultaneous movement on a short rope. Belaying via ridge bends and protrusions. Used/left: Pitons — 0/0 pcs., Chocks — 0/0 pcs. R3–R4. Ascend along the rack along the wall of the western edge. Rock-ice ridge. Length — 210 m. Steepness — up to 60°. Level of difficulty — 3+ cat. diff. Alternating movement. Piton belaying. Organization of intermediate points and stations in cracks above the rack. Monolithic rocks, limited options for belay point placement. Used/left: Pitons — 21/3 pcs., Chocks — 16/1 pcs. R4–R5. Ascend via a weakly expressed rock rib. Heavily dissected rocks. Length — 120 m. Steepness — 50°. Level of difficulty — 2+ cat. diff. Movement with rope belaying, using protrusions and occasional use of slings, pitons, and chocks. Used/left: Pitons — 1/0 pcs., Chocks — 10/0 pcs. R5–R6. Passage of the route's key section. Traverse along a ledge under an overhang. Polit. Inclined ledge under an overhang. Psychologically challenging due to the traverse with a descent. Length — 70 m. Angle — 30°. Level of difficulty — 3+ cat. diff. Movement with variable belaying. Intermediate belay points are pitons. Used/left: Pitons — 8/0 pcs., Chocks — 6/0 pcs. R6–R7. Ascend via the rock couloir to the pre-summit ridge and then exit to the summit via the ridge. Rocks with significant dissection. Many convenient locations for intermediate belay points. Length — 300 m. 45°. Level of difficulty — 2+, on the ridge approaching — 2–, 1+ cat. diff. Simultaneous movement on a shortened rope. Belaying via ridge bends and protrusions. Used/left: Pitons — 0/0 pcs., Chocks — 0/0 pcs.Polar Urals. Raiiz mountain massif. Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny). Route: "Via the western part of the northern wall". Level of difficulty — 2B cat. diff. (combined). First ascent: L. Mach — A. Goletarov, 2011.

Dinozavr GlavnyPolar Urals. Raiiz mountain massif. Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny). Route: "Via the western part of the northern wall". Level of difficulty — 2B cat. diff. (combined). Section: R2–R3.

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Route: via the western part of the northern wall. Level of difficulty — 2B cat. diff. (combined). Section: R3–R4.

Section R5–R6.

Psychologically challenging section — traverse under the overhang along an inclined ledge with a descent into the rock couloir. Characteristic rocks of the key section.

Footnotes

1. ¹ Polar Urals. Raiiz mountain massif. Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny) ↩