PASSPORT

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge.
3. "Ullutau" massif, via the rock islands of the Northern wall and the Western ridge (Maltsev's route), category 5B.
4. Elevation gain: 717 m length: 935 m, length of sections: 500 m, category 5, average steepness of the main part of the route 65°.
5. Pitons driven: rock: 19/0; bolt: 0+1x/0; chocks: 5/0; ice screws: 137/0.
6. Team's travel hours: 13.5 hours.
7. Overnights: 1st on the ridge on a site in a tent, 2nd on the ridge on a site in a tent.

1. Winter climb.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-su valley.
3. Ullu-tau Main peak summit to the right of the rocky islands on the northern wall (Maltsev's variant).
4. Snow and ice climb, complexity category 5B.
5. Height difference — 870 m, length — 1200 m, with category complexity — 860 m. Average steepness — 47°, with category complexity — 56°.
6. Pitons used: Ice screws (ice pitons) 120 0
7. Team's climbing hours — 11.5 hours (+ 5 hours of processing)
8. Overnight stays: at the initial bivouac.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge, Main Caucasian Range, section according to KMGV – 2.4.1
2. Peak: Ullu-Tau Main, right of the rock islands N wall W ridge (S. Burlutsky's route)
3. Category of difficulty: 5B
4. Route character: ice-snow
5. Height difference of the route: from bergschrund to the summit – 800 m (approximately) Route length: – 1200 m. Length of sections: 5th cat. diff. – 640 m, Average steepness:

Ascent Passport

1. Winter category.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge.
3. Ullu-Tau Glavnaya peak to the right of the rocky islands (Burlutsky's route).
4. Category of difficulty 5B ice-snow, 2nd ascent. 1994.
5. Height difference — 870 m; length — 1200 m (wall section — 950 m). Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 910 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 56°.
6. Number of ice screws used — 105 (0)
7. Team's climbing hours — 12.5 hours (11.5 hours — on the wall) and 2 days.

Ullu-Tau Main 4207 m. Right of the rock islands. North wall of the Western ridge. Burlutsky's route.

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge.
3. 5B category of difficulty.
4. Route type — ice and snow.
5. Height difference of the route is 1100 m. Route length is 1380 m. Length of category 5 sections — 890 m. Average slope:

8-2.4.1.1385 Moscow Region Climbing Championship 2008 (Technical Class) REPORT on the ascent of the Ullutau peak by the team from Shchelkovo via the north wall couloir, category 5B (first ascent)

1. Region — Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge; KMGV code 2.4.1.
2. Peak Ullutau-chana (Main) — 4207 m via the North Wall couloir
3. Proposed category — 5B; first ascent.
4. Route type — ice and snow climb.
5. Height difference — 910 m.
6. Route length — 1100 m.
7. Length of category 5 section — 210 m; category 6 section — 45 m.
8. Average slope — 55°.

Ascent Passport.

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge, Main Caucasus Range, section according to KMGV – 2.4.1
2. Peak Ullutau Glavnaya, 4207 m, via the North face (route by V. Abalakov).
3. Complexity category: 5B.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: (from "Abalakov's" bivouacs at the start of the route to the summit) — 700 m (approx.). Route length – 1000 m. Length of sections with V difficulty category – 180 m, VI difficulty category – 40 m. Average steepness:
   • key sections — 80°;

PASSPORT

I. CLIMB CLASS – winter 2. CLIMBING AREA – Central Caucasus 3. PEAK – ULLU-TAU Main, route via the North face, combined (V. Abalakov) 4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY – 5B 5. ELEVATION GAIN – 1000 m 6. LENGTH OF 5-6 difficulty sections – 450 m 7. AVERAGE SLOPE OF THE ROUTE – 57° 8. PITS DRIVEN ON ASCENT: rock belay devices pitons ice screws

1991 RSFSR Alpine Championship. Winter Ascension Class 135

Report

Report on the ascent to Ullu-Tau peak (Main) 4207 m via the north wall, category 5B, Abalakov's route '51. 2.4.1.132 KTMGV Team from "Rodina" Sports Club of the Kirov Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Team Leader Coach Shabalin P.E. Mashkovtsev V.I. "Rodina" Sports Club: 610006, Kirov, Lepsye St., 4A, ph. 30310, 36592

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.