1. Winter climb.

  2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-su valley.

  3. Ullu-tau Main peak summit to the right of the rocky islands on the northern wall (Maltsev's variant).

  4. Snow and ice climb, complexity category 5B.

  5. Height difference — 870 m, length — 1200 m, with category complexity — 860 m. Average steepness — 47°, with category complexity — 56°.

  6. Pitons used:

Ice screws (ice pitons) 120 0

  1. Team's climbing hours — 11.5 hours (+ 5 hours of processing)
  2. Overnight stays: at the initial bivouac.
  3. Team leader: Burlutskiy Sergey Viktorovich — CMS.

Participants:

  • Repin Yuriy Vladislavovich — CMS
  • Ayzikovich Sergey Mikhaylovich — CMS
  • Litvinenko Svetlana Nikolaevna — CMS
  1. Coach: Litvinenko Svetlana Nikolaevna.
  2. Departure to the route on February 21. Summit on February 22. Return on February 23. img-0.jpeg

Photo 1. General photo of Ullu-tau peak. February 20, 1994. 11:30. Camera "Agat" ("Industar-104"). Shooting point — Cheget overnight stays, distance to the object — 800 m.

  • team's route.
  • Maltsev's route.
  • Abalakov's route. img-1.jpeg

Photo 1a. General photo of Ullu-tau peak after snowfall on February 24, 1994. 16:00. Camera "Smena". Shooting point — Ullutau glacier, distance to the object — 600 m.

  • team's route. img-2.jpeg

Photo 2. Left profile. February 20, 1994. 14:00. Camera "Zenit-E" ("Industar-50-2"). Shooting point — I, distance to the object — 300 m. img-3.jpeg

Photo 4. Technical photo. February 20, 1994. 13:30. Camera "Zenit-E" ("Industar-50-2"), shooting point — "Central" overnight stays. img-4.jpeg

Route scheme

Route scheme in symbols

Climbing hours — 16.5 hours, including — 5 hours of processing.

Ice screwsSection numberLength, mSteepness, degreesDifficulty category
-R0–R125030°1
50R1–R236055°3
10R2–R33075°4
16R3–R416055°3
24R4–R520055°3
12R5–R68055°3
8R6–R73060°4
-R7–R88030°2
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Attached files

Sources

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