Ascent Passport

1. Class — High-altitude technical
2. South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Range, Nematzdara valley
3. Vodzh peak, 5434 m, via the North face through Marsh Mira pass
4. Proposed category of complexity — 5A cat. diff., snow-ice
5. Height difference: 780 m, length 1170 m, length of 5th category sections — 410 m, average steepness of main sections — 51° (5170–5410) 49° (4694–5080)
6. Pitons driven: protection and ITO rock —

4.13.136

SOUTHWESTERN PAMIR NORTH SHUGNAN RANGE Peak 40 let Chelyabinskogo politekhnicheskogo instituta im. Leninskogo komsomola (5070) First ascent route, category 3B, via the N wall, ice and snow. KARPENKOV M.V., SITCHIKHIN YU.V., SMIRNOV M.G., VAKHITOV T.K. August 16, 1983 450 m, 45°, III, 220/II, 160/16, 28 rope ladders 6 hours

Climbing Report

Ascent to the summit of Munku-Sardyk (3491 m) via the ice wall of the Eastern ridge (first ascent) Mountain Range: Eastern Sayan Month and Year of Ascent: May 2012

Irkutsk — 2013. Climbing Passport

Region — Eastern Sayans, Bolshoy Sayan, Muguvek gorge. Peak — Munku-Sardyk 3491 m. Route — ice wall of the Eastern ridge, proposed category 2B, First Ascent Route characteristics — snow-ice. Route description — elevation gain 800 m, route length approximately 1550 m. Average slope 45°. Equipment left on the route — 0 pitons. Pitons used on the route: 36, including (" закладок") — 0, ice screws — 36, bolt pitons — 0, including aid climbing — 0.

Climbing Report

Ascent to the summit of Pasmurnaya (3460 m) via the Center of the Northwest Wall (first ascent)

• Eastern Sayan Range
• May 2012

Irkutsk — 2012 Climbing Passport

Region — Eastern Sayans, Bolshoy Sayan, Muguvek gorge. Peak — Pasmurnaya 3460 m. Route — Center of the Northwest Wall

• proposed category 3A
• first ascent

ASCENT REPORT

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Lyubvi peak, 2121 m. "Ice of Love" via the western couloir of the northern ridge.
3. Proposed 3Az category of difficulty (first ascent)
4. Route type: combined. elevation gain: 940 m; average slope of the entire route: 27°; average slope of the key sections:

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF ZARECHNAYA SEVERNAYA (2350) PEAK BY THE "GULLY OF THE NORTH-WEST SLOPE" ROUTE CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY IN WINTER BY THE TEAM OF THE IRKUTSK ALPINISM SECTION FOR THE PERIOD FROM JANUARY 4, 2020 TO JANUARY 4, 2020 Team Leader: Zhdanov Dmitry Andreevich Irkutsk 2020

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Pik Lyubvi 2121 m via waterfall ice on the right stream of the SW ridge
3. Proposed 2B category of difficulty in winter, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined. Elevation gain: 1111 m (GPS); Average slope of the entire route: 32°; Total route length: 2100 m; VI category of difficulty: 0 m; V category of difficulty: 0 m;

Route Description

via the south-eastern ridge of Mt. SOAN (2952 m) in winter. Ascent date: May 5–6. From the base camp (1800 m), located at the fork of the Zuun-Khandagai River on the forest border, the group needs to move up to the southern wall of Mt. SOAN to set up an assault camp. See the diagram. The path goes up along the left stream (orographically) past large high-altitude lakes. The lakes are separated by powerful ascents consisting of: – large stones, – boulders, – rocks. Movement is hampered by depressions between boulders filled with snow. The path across the lakes goes directly across the ice and packed snow. The ascents are steep, and one has to gradually gain altitude, reversing along the slope. The ascent to the first lake, which resembles a flattened animal skin, provides a 350 m elevation gain. The ascent from the first lake to the second rises by 250 m, and the seemingly small peak behind the lake is recommended to be bypassed on the left side in the direction of travel. From the second lake, there is a 100 m ascent consisting of rock fragments and a rocky slope.

Photo 2. Area map of the ascent TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FIRST ASCENT ON V.SOAN

Brief explanation for the table

The route is a combined rock and snow route. Its first part is a rocky counterfort divided by a snowy horizontal belt into 2 bastions. The top of the 2nd bastion has overhanging rocks. The rocks are composed of gneisses with weak vertical jointing and a ribbed weathering surface with an external inclination of holds. The second part of the route is a steep snow lying on icy rocks and slabs. The snow condition makes it impossible to use an ice axe for belay. 20 m to the right of the lower part of the counterfort, at the start of the route, is a clearly visible wide gully.

• R0–R1. 2 ropes of medium and difficult climbing, with overhangs in places (photos 3,4); at the top, there is an icy crack-chimney (2 m).
• R1 rope - deviating to the right - along snowy blocky rocks. Exit to steep snowy rocks.

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |