Climbing Report

Ascent to the summit of Munku-Sardyk (3491 m) via the ice wall of the Eastern ridge (first ascent)

Mountain Range: Eastern Sayan

Month and Year of Ascent: May 2012

Irkutsk — 2013. Climbing Passport

Region — Eastern Sayans, Bolshoy Sayan, Muguvek gorge.

Peak — Munku-Sardyk 3491 m.

Route — ice wall of the Eastern ridge, proposed category 2B, First Ascent

Route characteristics — snow-ice. Route description — elevation gain 800 m, route length approximately 1550 m. Average slope 45°.

Equipment left on the route — 0 pitons. Pitons used on the route: 36, including (" закладок") — 0, ice screws — 36, bolt pitons — 0, including aid climbing — 0.

Climbing time — 8 hours; days — 1

Leader — Lebedev Anton Dmitrievich — 1st sports category

Participants — Perepechin Alexander Alexandrovich — 1st sports category

Departure dates:

• On the route May 4, 2012 at 8:00
• On the summit May 4, 2012 at 13:00
• Return to base camp — May 8, 2012 at 16:00

Route description. Approach to the route directly along the moraine from Lake Ekhoy, under the right part of the ice wall, and then, orienting towards the right counterfort, along the snowy slope. The start of the route is approximately 300–350 m below the slope, from the base of the right counterfort.

R0–R1

• Up the snowy-ice slope straight up, bypassing the counterfort on the left
• Orienting towards the right third of the ice wall
• Insurance via ice screws

350 m, 35°–45°, 2+

R1–R2

• Then, straight up the ice slope, through the center of the right third
• Then along a short steep couloir (60 m) to the ridge between the peaks Munku-Sardyk and Pasmernaya

450 m. 45°–55°, 3+

Section 2–3

• Along the snowy-ice ridge (mainly on the Mongolian side) with rare rock outcrops to the summit

200 m. 25°–30°, 2+

Descent from the summit via the 1B category route, and then along the snowy slope to Lake Ekhoy. Scheme in UIAA symbols