Climbing Report
Ascent to the summit of Pasmurnaya (3460 m) via the Center of the Northwest Wall (first ascent)
- Eastern Sayan Range
- May 2012
Irkutsk — 2012 Climbing Passport
Region — Eastern Sayans, Bolshoy Sayan, Muguvek gorge.
Peak — Pasmurnaya 3460 m.
Route — Center of the Northwest Wall
- proposed category 3A
- first ascent
Route characteristics — snow-ice. Route description:
- Height difference: 760 m.
- Route length: approximately 1020 m.
- Average slope: 47°.
Equipment left on the route — 0 pitons. Pitons used on the route: 45, including:
- " закладок" (chocks): 0
- Ice screws: 45
- Bolt pitons: 0
- Including ИТО (stand-alone protection): 0.
Climbing time — 10.5 hours; days — 1
Team leader — Perepechin Alexander Alexandrovich — 1st sports category
Team members:
- Lebedev Anton Dmitrievich — 1st sports category
- Astapenka Konstantin Mikhailovich — 1st sports category
- Karatsai Alexey Anatolyevich — 2nd sports category
Departure dates:
- On the route: May 8, 2012 8:00
- On the summit: May 8, 2012 16:00
- Return to base camp: May 8, 2012 18:30
Route description.
Approach to the route via a snow-ice slope to the left of Lake Ehoy under the central part of the icy Northwest wall and further along a rare rocky ridge to the right part of the Northwest Wall. The beginning of the route is at the end of the rocky ridge.
Sect. 0–1. Up a steep snow-ice slope directly upwards to a clearly visible transverse crevasse 15–20 cm wide. Protection via ice screws. 350 m, 35°–45°, 3–
Sect. 1–2. Further, straight up the icy slope, bypassing a rocky counterfort on the right, under the base of the summit tower. 470 m, 45°–55°, 3+
Sect. 2–3. Along a clearly visible, destroyed, ice-filled inner corner in the rocky wall, we exit onto the ridge between the summits of Pasmurnaya and Munku-Sardyk. 50 m, 60°, 4 —
Sect. 3–4 Along the ridge to the summit. 150 m, 20°, 2 —
Descent from the summit towards Peak Leonova to a wide saddle, further along a snow-ice couloir under the base of the northern wall of Pasmurnaya, and then along a snowy slope to Lake Ehoy.
Afanasyev's Route Afanasyev's Route 2B Radde's Route 4B Team's Route
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