Passport

of the ascent (first ascent) to Salynan peak via the North face. I. Climbing category: technically — challenging. 2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Chegem valley, Kargashil ridge. 3. Ascent route: Salynan peak (4350 m) via the North face. 4. Ascent description: – total altitude gain of the route 950 m, including: – lower ice ascent of the face 75 m, – middle ascent (Central bastion) 120 m, – upper ascent of the face 180 m,

53. Traversing Pik Tikhonov - Koshtantau with ascent to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort - Category 5A (E. Abalakov and V. Miklyashevsky - August 25-29, 1938; Figs. 10, II, 13, 17). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort is described in route 40. From Pik Tikhonov, descend via simple, crumbling rocks and a snowy slope to the saddle on the Eastern Ridge. Set up a bivouac on the saddle. From the initial bivouac - 8-9 hours. From the bivouac:

• Ascend rocks of medium difficulty to the first gendarme on the Western Ridge of Koshtantau.
• Traverse or circumvent the second and third gendarmes along the ridge or via ledges and slopes on their right side, reaching the saddle below the fourth gendarme.
• From the saddle, ascend a 60-meter ridge and a 5-meter chimney to reach the ledges.
• Traverse the ledges to the right and upwards to reach the Southern Counterfort of the fourth gendarme.
• Ascend the counterfort, bypassing a rocky "finger" on the left via ledges, to reach the gendarme and descend to the Western Ridge. The fourth gendarme can be circumvented on the right:
• Descend 10 meters down the wall to the right while traversing it.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Technical climbing category
2. Central Caucasus, Krumkol gorge
3. Traverse of Tikhonov Peak — Koshtantau with ascent to Tikhonov Peak via the South Face
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent of Tikhonov Peak South Face
5. Total elevation gain: 1595 m, total distance: 2310 m, including wall section: 1070 m elevation gain, 1255 m distance. Total distance of 5–6 category sections: 870 m, including 680 m on the wall section, of which 120 m are category 6. Average steepness of the wall section: 60°
6. Total pitons used:

   Piton type	Rock	Chocks	Ice screws	Bolts
   	118	69	34	-

I. Description of the Traverse Route

I. General Description of the Traverse of Ukyu and Gidan-tau Peaks and their Location

In the central part of the Central Caucasus, in the area of the Bezengi valley, north of Koshtan-tau peak, a spur of the Lateral Range extends, with Ullu-auz-bashi peak located in its northern part. Northeast of Ullu-auz-bashi peak lies Dumala-tau peak, opposite which, to the northwest, is a spur with Ukyu and Gidan-tau peaks. The spur with Ukyu and Gidan-tau peaks belongs to the Dumala river valley, which flows into the Cherek Bezengiysky river on the right. (see map) The traverse of Ukyu-Gidan-tau peaks was started from the "Bezengi" alpine camp following the route described in "Ascent to Ukyu peak via the southeastern ridge, category 2B". The further traverse proceeded in a northwest direction to Gidan-tau peak, with a descent along the western ridge of Gidan-tau peak. Having started the route at 4:00 PM on August 6, 1963, the group of 6 people:

1. Minin V.P. - leader, 1st sports category.
2. Mekhannikov V.V., 1st sports category.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Bezen­gi area, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table.
2. To Mt. Malaya Ukyu, height 4240 m, via the couloir and the northwest ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. The route is combined.
5. Height difference: 800 m.
6. 2 rappel loops left on the route.
7. Moving time: 8 hours.
8. Leader: Slot­yuk A.A., CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports), participants: Ryab­ov I.V., MSIC (Master of Sports of International Class), Ryab­ov S.I., III sports category.
9. Coach: Slot­yuk A.A.

20. Ullauuz via South Spurring Ridge — category of difficulty (G. Chunovkin, Yu. Komarov, A. Pugachev, V. Stankevich, Yu. Shevchenko and I. Shestipalov, August 24, 1964). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the bivouac on the South ridge of the Utug pinnacle see in description 18. From the bivouac:

• Descend from the ridge to the snowy plateau of the glacier, above the third stage of the icefall
• Ascend along the plateau, then along the snowy rise to the upper snowy plateau of the cirque, formed by the peaks Ullauuz and Kundyum-Mizhyrgi
• Behind the South spurring ridge of the Ullauuz peak, visible from the bivouac, to the left (rope

5th cat. diff. free climbing 26.10.82 sect. 519.14 197a 11th Championship of the Caucasus Territorial Administration of Alpine Camps 1982 Rock Climbing Category

Report

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Object of ascent: v. Ural V. via the SE wall.
4. Proposed route - 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference - 550 m, length - 684 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity - 545 m. Average steepness of main sections is 70° (3600-4080), including 6 category of complexity at 87° (3600-3685); 85° (3715-3770).
6. Pitons hammered: rock 65, bolt 7, chocks 72, 3.
7. Team's man-hours - 20 and days - 2.

200 198

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of MGHR. 2.3.
3. Peak: Ural (Western) (4300 m).
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 45, pr. 507, p.4, 26/5–81.
5. Route character: combined. Height difference: 520 m. Average steepness: 63°. Length of sections: 4th cat. diff. — 155 m; 5th cat. diff. — 265 m; (of which 5B and 6 cat. diff. — 80 m)

Report on the Ascent of the National Team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the Summit of Belalakaya 3861 m

via the South-Eastern Lap. Presumably 5A category of difficulty. First Ascent. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — 1st sports category Report compiled in November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2. From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Climbing Participants

1. Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A.