Chelebi — 4

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa Chelebi, Crimea. Descriptions of mountaineering routes The Chelebi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Baidarskie Vorota" pass and Ilias-Kaya mountain. Relative height is 200 m, absolute height is 600 m above sea level. Despite its relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, Bershov's route, there are sometimes several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right:

• The left path (if you look at the sea) is shorter: you need to go along the yayla along the cliff towards the Baidarskie Vorota for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, a group of trees grows.
• Down the steep scree, then to the right along the wall.

«Belka»

The route passes in the left part of the Chelebi bastion. The start is to the left of the «Strelka» Suslov's route, approximately twenty meters away. Up a vertical internal corner between two slabs:

• free climbing 5 cat. diff. — 10 m to a ledge (on the first two pitons, loops hang for orientation).
• from the ledge 15–20 m up a thin crack and so on A2 (skyhooks may be needed) to a rusty ledge. On the rusty ledge, it's possible to make a station (there's an old rusty piton with a loop, approximately 30 m from the ground). From the ledge upwards, first along the crack, then skyhooks in the direction of the cornice. The cornice is passed in the left part. Behind the cornice, to the right, to a good crack. On the second drilled hole, there's a station. The section is 30 m and A2. There are six drilled pitons:
• The lower one is rusty, left over from Suslov's attempt. Then, along good cracks, straight up in the direction of the white internal corner. местами лазание, местами и.т.о. A1. The section is 40 m. The station is at the base of the white internal corner, there's a drilled piton. Up the corner 20 m and A2 to the junction with «Strelka».

Che­le­bi — 16

Route №16 «Pavlova»

5A VI A1 275 m (6 pitches). Average passage time — 4–6 hours. The main part of the route goes through the center of the monolithic wall. On the way, climbers will encounter many old rock pitons and anchors, which do not inspire confidence. The start coincides with routes №13–15. In addition, movement can begin along the first pitch of route №17. R0–R1: 30 m. Along the ledge, go left to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Belay station on the tree. Transition:

• 10 m — I

10

Chelebi — 6

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Od­es­sa

Che­le­bi, Cri­mea. De­scrip­tions of al­pi­nist routes

The Che­le­bi massif is lo­cat­ed in the west­ern part of the Main Ridge of the Cri­mean Moun­tains, be­tween the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il­yas-Ka­ya moun­tain. Rel­a­tive height is 200 m, ab­so­lute height is 600 m above sea lev­el. De­spite the mod­est height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th dif­fi­cul­ty grade are laid through the cen­tral part of the wall. The routes are very pop­u­lar (for ex­am­ple, the Ber­shov route, there are sev­er­al as­cends per day). De­scent from the wall is pos­si­ble both left and right. The left path (if look­ing to­wards the sea) is short­er:

• Walk along the yay­la along the cliff to­wards Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta for about 600–700 m.
• Near the de­scend­ing cou­loir there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.

4Б cat. dif., "Kurinnaya Lapochka" (Chicken Leg)

The exit to the cirque above the first belt of rocks is described in route Ch10. Walk along the terrace to the left, under a narrow, clearly visible crack in the slab, stretching from right to left. The crack is located 40–50 m to the left of a large cornice. R1 is set near a tree under the crack. Climb up the crack to the left and exit onto a small ledge (20 m, 80°, V, small and medium-sized gear). Then:

• Under the cornice, climb up an inner corner with a convenient crack for 15 m to a ledge.
• Traverse left along the ledge to a tree (VI) — R2. From the tree:
• Climb 4–5 m up and to the right along the wall.
• Swing right into an inner corner behind a ridge. Climb complex rocks in the inner corner for 15 m upwards (85°, VA1, small and medium-sized gear), then pass a small overhang and exit into another inner corner.

"Chimney in the Chimney", 4A (Chelebi)

Route thread A very interesting and beautiful route, abundant with diverse climbing, especially memorable for its chimneys. Judging by its condition, it is rarely climbed and requires clearing of ledges from stones. Recommended for ascent by well-prepared groups. It is better to have experience in chimney climbing, although the route is well-suited for getting acquainted with this truly interesting and enjoyable type of climbing. The terrain on the route does not lend itself to frequent use of protection, but there are places where pitons can be used. In principle, for the passage of the route, it will be sufficient to have:

• several medium-sized friends,
• a set of stoppers,
• seven to ten quickdraws.

Description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 4A cat. difficulty

Written by Katterrin on April 23, 2010. Before the May holidays, I finally gathered my thoughts to write a description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 3B cat. difficulty. Maybe it will be useful to someone. Route "Bashnya" on Chelebi

4₁, cat. difficulty

UIAA scheme of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi from the guidebook "Skaly u morya" (Rocks by the Sea) The route is located in the leftmost part of the Chelebi massif; to its right is the route 2B "po Kaminu" (via the Chimney).

Description of the "left chimney" route 2B on Chelebi, variant through the chimney.

Written by Anatolik Eremeev on September 25, 2011 The approach to the route from the parking area near the spring takes 40 minutes, from the road — about an hour. R0–R1. The start is from a tree at the base of the chimney. The first rope length is "garden-veggie" climbing between bushes and trees. Nothing complicated. The station is on a tree before the "plug". (40 m II) R1–R2. Unambiguous climbing. It's impossible to get lost.

• "Probka" (plug)
• "Probka kolodets" (plug well) The station is on a tree after the second "plug". (35 m: 5 m IV, 25 m I, 5 m IV) R2–R3. The crux rope length. This is where the most interesting part begins. From the tree, approach the "plug" before entering the deep dark chimney. If the rocks are slippery, you can hang a foot loop in the "hourglass". Then move a couple of meters up the chimney. Climb in "raspor" (opposition) — you won't be able to do it otherwise :). Protection: