Description of the "left chimney" route 2B on Chelebi, variant through the chimney.
Written by Anatolik Eremeev on September 25, 2011
The approach to the route from the parking area near the spring takes 40 minutes, from the road — about an hour.
R0–R1. The start is from a tree at the base of the chimney. The first rope length is "garden-veggie" climbing between bushes and trees. Nothing complicated. The station is on a tree before the "plug". (40 m II)
R1–R2. Unambiguous climbing. It's impossible to get lost.
- "Probka" (plug)
- "Probka kolodets" (plug well)
The station is on a tree after the second "plug". (35 m: 5 m IV, 25 m I, 5 m IV)
R2–R3. The crux rope length. This is where the most interesting part begins. From the tree, approach the "plug" before entering the deep dark chimney. If the rocks are slippery, you can hang a foot loop in the "hourglass". Then move a couple of meters up the chimney. Climb in "raspor" (opposition) — you won't be able to do it otherwise :). Protection:
- chocks
- friends
- pitons
- you can place a loop at the top
Then move right into another chimney, heading towards the light ®. The station is on a tree. (50 m III–IV)
R3–R4 (R5). From the tree, traverse 5 m to the right onto the ridge. Continue along the ridge towards the fault. The station is on a tree before the fault or, if the rope is long enough, immediately on the yayla.
(5 m III, 20 m II, the rest is I).
The descent is to the west on a good trail.
Recommendations and impressions:
- Equipment — 50 m rope, slings, a set of chocks, several medium-sized friends, pitons may be needed.
- A very unusual climbing route in terms of character. A speleo ascent. The width of the first chimney on the crux rope length is less than a meter, the second is slightly more than a meter.
- The first climber on R2–R3 should move without a backpack. For the second climber or when using a rope ladder, it's more convenient to hang the backpack between the legs.
- Before exiting onto the yayla, there are boulders the size of a washing machine in the fault — climb carefully, they might "come to life"!
- The route is suitable as a warm-up before the "Big Chimney 4A".
