Chelebi — 4

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Chelebi, Crimea. Descriptions of mountaineering routes

The Chelebi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Baidarskie Vorota" pass and Ilias-Kaya mountain. Relative height is 200 m, absolute height is 600 m above sea level.

Despite its relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, Bershov's route, there are sometimes several ascents per day).

Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right:

The left path (if you look at the sea) is shorter: you need to go along the yayla along the cliff towards the Baidarskie Vorota for about 600–700 m.
Near the descent couloir, a group of trees grows.
Down the steep scree, then to the right along the wall.

List of routes

Suslov's route "Strelka" 5B
Kruglov's route "Lunokhod" 99 6A
Bershov's route 5B
? "Dnepropetrovsky" 6A
Verba's route 6A
"Kamin" 4A (left variant — 5A)
along the right wall of "Kamin" 5A — a dangerous route on a "crumbling" wall.
Popov — Shelkhakov's "Zub" 5B 99
"Kurinaia lapochka" 4B

7–12 — routes on the right part of the wall, start along "Dvoika"

"Flay down"

done top-down.

"Dvoika" 2A
Pavlov's "Bolshoi Karniz" 5B, start along "Dvoika"

Route descriptions

In the route descriptions, to indicate the difficulty of free climbing, I used the French classification, as it is the most widespread in the CIS.

Sections of artificial technical aids (IT) are evaluated according to the American system, i.e.:

difficulty depends on the number of unreliable points,
difficulty does not depend on the steepness of the rock.

"Strelka" 5B 170 m.

Climbed by M. Suslov. In the left part of the SW wall, an inclined open internal angle is clearly visible, turning into a crack, forming the right part of the "strelka". This is the route. There are 2 variants of the start, both converge in the middle of the 1st rope.

Classic start — along the internal angle up to the left, difficult climbing, IT, 15 m, then 10 m up along steep, destroyed rocks to a ledge with loose rocks. Along the crack — complex climbing or on IT, 5–7 m up, then to the right and up to a ledge at the base of a large internal angle.

R1. 40 m 85°, 6aA3
Then 25 m up along the internal angle (small and medium-sized protection)
Then along the crack — chimney, difficult climbing, IT 15 m (friends, large "hexes") — exit to a ledge
From the ledge up along a narrow internal angle, difficult climbing 10 m
R2. 50 m 85° 6B
Then up along internal angles (V)
Bypass the ledge from the left — exit to a tree
R3. 50 m 70° V
Along the overgrown couloir, exit to the yayla, 30 m I