Description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 4A cat. difficulty

Written by Katterrin on April 23, 2010.

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Before the May holidays, I finally gathered my thoughts to write a description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 3B cat. difficulty. Maybe it will be useful to someone.

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Route "Bashnya" on Chelebi

4₁, cat. difficulty

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UIAA scheme of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi from the guidebook "Skaly u morya" (Rocks by the Sea)

The route is located in the leftmost part of the Chelebi massif; to its right is the route 2B "po Kaminu" (via the Chimney).

Approach:

  • Initially, there's a trail that goes past the spring of pipes.
  • Then the trail ends, and "chascha" (dense thicket) and boulders begin.
  • Boulders — "chascha"...

We were led by Klad, who navigated using his internal GPS and recognized the counterfort "Bashnya".

The route starts essentially from a ledge with a tree; from the ground to this tree, you need to climb a rope via the simplest route you can think of. There are many options; the one you choose is yours.

After the tree, you need to move slightly left and climb further up the crack, passing through a large flake. Climbing is varied, with pitons encountered. Strong climbers can look for adventures a bit to the left on the overhang.

We had a 50m rope, so we set up a station on a small but cozy ledge. There are pitons, but you need to add your own as well. The view from the ledge is amazing.

If you have a 60m rope, you can set up a station higher — I remember there were even trees.

R2–R3 — climbing is grade 3; initially, via a crack, then a bit via "ogorody" (gardens); we climb a small wall (there's a channel, the wall is interesting) and traverse left to a large tree.

R3–R4 — easy climbing with developed terrain; station on 2 bollards.

R4–R5 — 5m of difficult climbing; it seems there's a piton; it's very unpleasant because if you fall, you'll fall onto the station.

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Above, climbing is grade III–IV. After about 30 meters, you reach a large ledge surrounded by many loose small stones. Further on, there's a simple short chimney and the yayla (plateau).

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Sources

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