Chelebi — 6

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Od­es­sa

Che­le­bi, Cri­mea. De­scrip­tions of al­pi­nist routes

The Che­le­bi massif is lo­cat­ed in the west­ern part of the Main Ridge of the Cri­mean Moun­tains, be­tween the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il­yas-Ka­ya moun­tain. Rel­a­tive height is 200 m, ab­so­lute height is 600 m above sea lev­el.

De­spite the mod­est height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th dif­fi­cul­ty grade are laid through the cen­tral part of the wall. The routes are very pop­u­lar (for ex­am­ple, the Ber­shov route, there are sev­er­al as­cends per day).

De­scent from the wall is pos­si­ble both left and right. The left path (if look­ing to­wards the sea) is short­er:

• Walk along the yay­la along the cliff to­wards Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta for about 600–700 m.
• Near the de­scend­ing cou­loir there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.

List of routes

1. Sus­lov's route "Strel­ka" 5B

2. Kруг­lo­va's route "Luно­hod" 99 year 6A

3. Ber­shov's route 5B

4. ? «Dнеп­ропе­тро­вский» 6А

5. Ver­ba's route 6А

6. "Ka­min" 4А (left vari­ant — 5А)

7. via the right wall of "Ka­min" 5А — dan­ger­ous route via "raz­va­lyu­kha".

8. Po­po­va —

Shel­kha­kov's "Zub" 5Б 99 г

9. "Ku­ri­na­ya la­pka" 4Б

7–12 — routes on the right part of the wall, start via the "Dvoika"

10. "Flay down"

done from top to bot­tom.

11. Dvo­ika 2А
12. Pav­lov's route "Bol­shoy Kar­niz" 5Б, start via the 2nd route

De­scrip­tions of routes

In the de­scrip­tions of the routes, I used the French clas­si­fi­ca­tion to in­di­cate the dif­fi­cul­ty of free climb­ing, as it is the most wide­ly used in the CIS. Sec­tions of ITO are eval­u­at­ed ac­cord­ing to the Amer­i­can sys­tem, i.e. the com­plex­i­ty de­pends on the num­ber of un­re­li­able points, not on the steep­ness of the rock.

Ber­shov's route

• 5Б
• 180 м
• 6b
• A1

The route goes through the in­ter­nal cor­ner — a chim­ney, which cuts through the SW wall in the mid­dle.

R0–R1: Se­ries of in­ter­nal cor­ners, free climb­ing, pro­tec­tion — friends, hex­es, large stop­pers. Sta­tion on a ledge be­fore the "rotten" bolts (not used). 30 m 80° V+

R1–R2: Via the in­ter­nal cor­ner reach a ledge be­fore the over­hang­ing wall with 2 slits. Via the slits, then via the in­ter­nal cor­ner reach a ledge with 2 bolts. Pro­tec­tion — me­dium-sized nuts, friends. Sta­tion. 25 m 85° V+/6a

R2­–­R3: from the ledge up, en­ter the wide, over­hang­ing in­ter­nal cor­ner with a wide slit. Via the cor­ner by climb­ing (friends, me­dium-sized nuts, some bolts) up, en­ter the chim­ney. Via the chim­ney 10 m up to a ledge. Sta­tion on 2 bolts. 35 m, 90°, 6a

R3­–­R4: From the ledge up, via the in­ter­nal cor­ner 10 m, be­low the over­hang. Through the over­hang on ITO, there are 2 bolts, en­ter the chim­ney. Via the chim­ney up 5 m, then exit to the left wall of the chim­ney. Via the wall 3 m, then via the nar­row chim­ney — com­plex climb­ing 57 m (there are 3 bolts). Fur­ther the chim­ney wid­ens, climb­ing be­comes eas­i­er, there are sev­er­al pitons. Sta­tion on a small tree. 45 m 80­° 6Б А1

R4­–­R5: From the sta­tion via the chim­ney, then via the slits, eas­i­er climb­ing 45 m III.