Route №16 «Pavlova»

5A VI A1 275 m (6 pitches). Average passage time — 4–6 hours.

The main part of the route goes through the center of the monolithic wall. On the way, climbers will encounter many old rock pitons and anchors, which do not inspire confidence.

The start coincides with routes №13–15. In addition, movement can begin along the first pitch of route №17.

R0–R1: 30 m. Along the ledge, go left to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Belay station on the tree.

Transition:

• 10 m — I
• 20 m — II–III

R1–R2: 40 m. Up through simple rocks to a rock spall. Continue movement upwards and through simple sloping rocks, exit to a large ledge overgrown with trees. Belay station on one of them.

Transition:

• 15 m — II
• 10 m — IV
• 15 m — II

R2–R3: 100 m. Up and right along the inclined slabs of the large ledge to a pine tree. Organize a belay station on it.

90 m I; 10 m III:

R3–R4: 30 m. Move up and left 25 meters along a diagonal crack, where rock pitons are driven. Then up the wall to anchors, and then to a small tree.

30 m V+

R4–R5: 45 m. Traverse left to the inner corner. Along the way, old bolted and rock pitons are encountered. Up the corner under the eave, using large-sized protection. Overcome the eave and move up and right along a smooth wall, where anchors and pitons are driven. Then left to a rock shelf. From it, ascend up and right, overcoming overhanging rocks, and shift left, behind a rock outcropping.

45 m, VA1–A2.

R5–R6: 30 m. Right to the inner corner. Up it 10 m. Then, moving left, exit to the plateau.

• 10 m IV
• 20 m II–III

In the photo on the right: Ivan Temerev and Vasily Teryokhin on the "Pavlova" route. Photo by A. Nadymova