Recommendations and clarifications for ascending to the summit
RED POINT via the East Ridge — 3–5 cat. difficulty.
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The ascent to the ridge at the point of its significant lowering via snow ledges is clearly visible from below at the start of the route.
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The slab in front of the grey pillar is bypassed on the left via a ledge-crevasse.
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When bypassing the grey pillar on the right, it was necessary to cut 2–3 steps in the snow-ice slope.
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A good platform /in the form of a practically horizontal slab on the ridge/ for overnight stay is available 30–45 minutes before reaching the grey pillar.
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It's best to pass the gully with a plug in its upper part without backpacks.
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The variant of bypassing the pillar (before the pre-summit col) on the left with a descent through a narrow cleft and bypassing via ledges, not reaching the summit of the pillar by 2–3 ropes, is easier and more logical than traversing the wall under the col itself, undertaken by the first ascenders.
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To reach the rocks of the East summit, it's better to traverse the left firn slope from right (almost from the ridge) to left until the start of the East summit rocks. Then follow the rocks of the summit on the southern side, where they form stepped, easily passable talus. The path from the overnight stay on the col to the East summit takes about 1.5 hours.
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Descent from the East summit is better via the left (by direction) firn slope, keeping close to the ridge until the pre-summit col, then left along the firn slope, following the rocky outcrops on the right side until the "Nauka" saddle. Then left onto the wide talus steps of the "ram's foreheads". From the first step, the characteristic protrusion of the 2nd step is clearly visible, from which an inclined talus ledge begins, leading left to the 3rd step near the waterfall, next to which a sports descent of 20–25 m can be organized until the main waterfall. Then, crossing the moraine at the ridge shoulder, the exit slope of the "Akhbasoi" pass. The ascent to the pass is better via the talus ledge under the walls of the "Krasnaya Moskva" summit. The descent from the East summit to the overnight stay site on the moraine at the start of the "Akhbasoi" glacier takes about 8 hours.
TIME CALCULATION FOR THE ASCENT.
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Approach from the base camp to the moraine at the "Akhbasoi" glacier — 4 hours.
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From the moraine to the start of the route at the southern slope of the East ridge — 2 hours.
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Ascent to the ridge via inclined ledges — 4 hours.
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Transition to the overnight stay site on the horizontal slab — 1 hour. For one day of ascent = (11 hours of work) (7–8 hours)
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On the 2nd day of ascent — 12 hours, overnight stay on the pre-summit col.
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On the 3rd day of ascent — 12 hours, overnight stay on the moraine at the "Akhbasoi" glacier.
Compiled clarifications and recommendations
Stepanov
August 10, 1969