Ascent Report to Peak Rufina via the Southeast Ridge

First ascent. Cat. 2B.

• Route classification: Technical.
• Mountain region: Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range. Alaudin Valley.
• Peak name, height, route: Peak Rufina (4150 m), via the 3rd ridge.
• Cat. sl.: 2B.
• Elevation gain: from the start of the route to the summit – approximately 400 m. Wall section – 300 m. Average steepness of the wall section – 40°.
• Equipment on the route: 1 rope 10 mm × 50 m. Anchor pitons – 5 pcs., chocks – set, cams – 6 pcs., pitons – 5 pcs., 2 sets of trekking poles.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — V. SARYSHKH, 4650 m, via the northern wall of the eastern ridge, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B. 5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain — 650 m, wall section elevation gain — 375 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 280 m, average slope of the entire route — 40°, average slope of the wall section — 60°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — 48, for creating anchor points — 1. 7. Number of nights and their characteristics — 1, safe, convenient, on a rocky ridge.

4. 5B cat. difficulty
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 800 m. Length of sections 5–6 — 600 m. Average steepness (wall part) — 70°.
6. Rock pitons hammered in: for belaying — 80, for creating ITO — 2
7. Number of travel hours — 14
8. Number of overnight stays — 1, satisfactory.
9. KSP group in the Fann Mountains consisting of: Mumdzhi Timur Memetovich — CMS, Ponomarev Valery Alekseevich — CMS
10. Team coach: Mumdzhi T.M.

Ascent Record (3rd Passage)

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge
3. Peak: Sary-Shakh (4650 m) via the right edge of the northeast wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average steepness 80°, section lengths: 3 – 100 m, 4 – 140 m, 5 – 230 m, 6 – 145 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | Type of pitons | For belay | For creating ITO | | :------------- | :-------- | :--------------- |

Ascent Passport

I. Technical class. 2. Fan Mountains. Zeravshan Range. 3. Sary-Shakh peak, 4650 m, via the right part of the North face (through the cleft) 4. 5B category of difficulty (repeat ascent) 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, length of 5th-6th category sections — 540 m, average steepness — 80 — 85° 6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 89 used to create intermediate belays — 17, bolted pitons — 2, used cams, stoppers — 46 7. Number of climbing hours — 25 hours 8. Number of bivouacs — 2

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class - technical
2. Ascent area, ridge - Zarafshan Ridge, Fann Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Saryshah, 4650 m, via the right part of the NW wall, 5B category difficulty, 3rd ascent of the route.
4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 950 m, length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty - 800 m, average steepness - 76°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock - 72, including 7 for creating belay stations, chockstones - 45, including 10 for creating belay stations.

Report

On the ascent of

p. Saryshakh, 5B, via the right part of the northwestern wall

Black Ice Club Team

Team Leader

Poliakov M. A.

Participants

Stepanov N. A.

1. Route classification: Technical.
2. Mountain region: Gissar-Alai, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range.

Mt. Северная, 2B, via North Edge

Climbing type: Rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Северная (4027 m), via North Edge Difficulty category: 2B Route characteristics: Height difference — 200 m

Route description

The route starts from Алаудинский pass. Follow the ridge of the pass to the rocks of Peak Северный. From the upper point of the pass's ridge, move 2 meters to the right — the beginning of the route, the lower part of the 1st buttress, a signpost is present (М^). From the start of the route, ascend 5–8 m upwards, then traverse 10 m to the right along a ledge. Continue upwards through internal corners for about 70 m until reaching a control cairn located on a ledge of the northern ridge. Then ascend 10–15 m along the ledge to a "hole" (a gap covered by a stone slab from above). Through it, ascend easy rocks to the left and upwards to an inclined 8-meter slab at the summit, where the summit cairn is located. Descend via scree towards Шагун-Ага pass.

Route Description

Ascent to Pik Severny (North Peak) category 3A difficulty 3A, via NW ridge, 4050 m. Pik Severny is located in the eastern part of the massif, situated above the Alaudin pass. The described route initially follows the NW ridge, where the D-3 ridge converges with the wall facing north, forming a protruding angle to the NW. The approach to the route from the Kulikalon lakes takes 2.5-3 hours. After 1-1.5 hours of ascent along the trail leading to the Alaudin pass, one needs to change direction to the right and upwards along the grassy ridge. The starting point of the route is a clearly defined and protruding rocky "peak" at the base of the route. A midpoint landmark on the ridge is the "brick" - a rectangular rocky outcrop; the destination is located to the left of it. From the rocky peak, proceed right and upwards for 1 rope length - alternating belay, using pitons and rock features, to a snowy-icy section. 2 pitons, start of the route at 10:10. Continue to make your way to the "brick" right and upwards. Before reaching 1/3 of the way to the "brick", there is a talus shelf on the right where the first control cairn is located under large stones. To the 1st control cairn, 3 rope lengths. (3 rope lengths, alternating belay, via outcrops, 3 pitons). From the 1st control cairn, proceed left and upwards to 2 large boulders - 1 rope length. From the 2 large boulders, make your way to a chimney with a plug - 1 rope length. (2 rope lengths, alternating belay, piton belay, 3 pitons, via outcrops). From the plug, 2 rope lengths lead to the exit onto the NW ridge. Continue simultaneously along the ridge, with the slope to one side, towards the summit.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area — Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains. 3. Pik Severny, height 4200 m, ascent via the eastern wall. 4. Presumed difficulty category (third "B" cat. diff.). 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 185 m; length of sections with 3–4 difficulty grade — 85 m, average steepness — 60° 6. 20 rock pitons hammered in, one of them for ITO (Instrumental Technical Equipment). 7. Total hours of climbing — six hours 8. Number of overnight stays — no overnight stays.