Mt. Северная, 2B, via North Edge

Climbing type: Rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Северная (4027 m), via North Edge Difficulty category: 2B Route characteristics: Height difference — 200 m

Route description

The route starts from Алаудинский pass. Follow the ridge of the pass to the rocks of Peak Северный. From the upper point of the pass's ridge, move 2 meters to the right — the beginning of the route, the lower part of the 1st buttress, a signpost is present (М^). From the start of the route, ascend 5–8 m upwards, then traverse 10 m to the right along a ledge. Continue upwards through internal corners for about 70 m until reaching a control cairn located on a ledge of the northern ridge. Then ascend 10–15 m along the ledge to a "hole" (a gap covered by a stone slab from above). Through it, ascend easy rocks to the left and upwards to an inclined 8-meter slab at the summit, where the summit cairn is located. Descend via scree towards Шагун-Ага pass.

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P. Северный via North Ridge

2B category of difficulty

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Route sections:

  • R5: 40 m, 40°+
  • R4: 40 m, 60°Ⅲ+
  • R3: 40 m, 50°+
  • R2: 40 m, 75°Ⅳ
  • R1: 40 m, 60°Ⅲ+
  • R0 (Алаудинский pass)

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