Ascent Record (3rd Passage)
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge
- Peak: Sary-Shakh (4650 m) via the right edge of the northeast wall
- Difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average steepness 80°,
section lengths: 3 – 100 m, 4 – 140 m, 5 – 230 m, 6 – 145 m.
- Pitons hammered in:
| Type of pitons | For belay | For creating ITO |
|---|
| Rock | 48 | 10 |
| Ice | 17 | 10 |
| Chocks | 35 | 10 |
- Number of climbing hours: 18.5 hours.
- Number of overnight stays: 1 semi-reclining.
- Participants:
- Rudenko V.P. — Candidate Master of Sports
- Feldman G.L. — Candidate Master of Sports
- Team coach: Honored Coach of the Ukrainian SSR, Master of Sports Sivtsov B.G.
- Date of departure on the route: July 25, 1979
Date of return: July 26, 1979
- route task list — route sheet
Characteristics Table
| Date | Designation | Average steepness, ° | Length, m | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock | Ice | Chocks |
|---|
| July 25 | R0–R1 | 75 | 20 | Rock forehead | V | Monolithic | Good | 2 | 1 | 1 |
| R1–R2 | 50 | 100 | Shelves, walls | III | Destroyed | — | 6 | — | 3 |
| 6:00–18:30 | R2–R3 | 90 | 80 | Wall | VI | Monolithic | — | IV,8 | 4 | IV,3 |
| 12.5 hours | R3–R4 | 85 | 45 | Wall | VI | — | — | II,3 | 3 | 1,2 |
| R4–R5 | 85 | 35 | Wall with a ledge | V | — | — | 3 | 1 | 3 |
| R5–R6 | 85 | 40 | Inner corner | V | Slightly destroyed | — | 1,4 | 1 | 2 |
| R6–R7 | 90 | 35 | Wall | V–VI | Monolithic | — | III,6 | 1 | 2 |
| | | | Semi-reclining overnight stay on a small platform under the ascent | | | | | | |
| July 26 | R6–R7 | 90 | 35 | Via fixed ropes | V | — | — | 1 | 1 | 2 |
| 7:00–13:00 | R7–R8 | 85 | 20 | Wall | V | — | — | 2 | 1 | V,3 |
| 6 hours | R8–R9 | 95 | 20 | Overhanging inner corner | VI | — | — | 3 | 3 | 4 |
| R9–R10 | 80 | 60 | Wall | V | — | — | 4 | — | 4 |
| R10–R11 | 70 | 70 | Edge | IV | — | — | 4 | — | 4 |
| R11–R12 | 60 | 70 | Shelves, walls | IV | Slightly destroyed | — | 3 | — | 3 |
| R12–R13 | 80 | 40 | Inner corner | V | — | — | 3 | 1 | 3 |
| R13–R14 | 25 | 250 | Ridge | — | — | — | — | — | — |
Explanation of the Table
From the overnight stay, approach the wall to the left of the route, to where the 1st shelf is closest.
R0–R1. Via the "ram's forehead" to the shelf.
R1–R2. Via shelves with walls up and to the right under the route, leaving the splinter to the left and above, to a ledge.
R2–R3. From the ledge straight up under the left part of the larger cornice to a small ledge.
R3–R4. To the right and up under the cornice, bypassing it on the right with an exit to a narrow ledge.
R4–R5. Along the disappearing ledge to the right under the ascent of the edge, to the inner corner.
R5–R6. Via the inner corner to a platform under the ascent (overnight stay).
R6–R7. To the left and up onto a steep slab.
R7–R8. Via the slab to the left, then up to the inner corner between the brows. Almost no place to hammer in pitons.
R8–R9. Up between the brows via the overhanging inner corner, turning into a cleft, to the 2nd control cairn.
R9–R10. Via rocks like ram's foreheads to the edge.
R10–R11. Up the edge to a shelf bypassing the edge on the right.
R11–R12. Via shelves with walls, bypassing the edge on the right with an exit to it under the bastion.
R12–R13. Via the inner corner to the left of the bastion to the summit ridge.
R13–R14. Along the ridge to the summit.
Descent via the UA route to the Mezhozerný pass and further north along the counterfort to the scree plateau under the NE wall.
