Report

on the ascent to the summit 2839.8 m Pseashkha West via the south-west ridge presumably 1B cat. diff. First ascent

Climbing Passport

1. Area: Western Caucasus, Krasnaya Polyana area, Pslukh valley, section 2.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
2. Summit: 2839.8 m Pseashkha West, via the south-west ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 700 m.

The main summit of Psysh mountain (3509 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the upper reaches of the Psysh river between the passes:

• to the west — Naur,
• to the east — Chamagvara and glaciers:
• Northern Psysh,
• Southwest Psysh. In addition to the main summit, there is also the Eastern summit of Psysh, to which the Busha glacier is adjacent from the north, and the Skeu glacier from the south. The North-Psyshsky and Busha glaciers are separated by an ice isthmus, to the north of which the Tokmak peak rises in a beautiful pyramid (see orographic diagram, photo I). There are no classified routes to any of the peaks in the upper reaches of the Psysh gorge. Only in the upper reaches of the Amanauz river — a left tributary of the Psysh river — were four routes to the peaks climbed and classified in 1978:
• Akademika Kalesnik (2A and 3B)
• 60 let VLKSM (2B and 3B)

I. Climbing category — rock

2. Climbing area — Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskiy ridge between the upper reaches of the Sofia and Psysh rivers.
3. Peak, route — peak "200 years of Pyatigorsk" (proposed by the first ascenders), 3398 m, via the NW buttress and ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A 163 pr. 499
5. Route description — rock, via the buttress with a transition to the ridge, elevation gain — 590 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons driven — 3 rock pitons for protection.
7. Number of climbing hours — from the start of the route to the summit tower 4 hours (group of 6 people).
8. Number of nights — not required on the route.
9. Climbing leader: Zaporozhchenko E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports

Fig. 35. North-west buttress, ridge and summit point of the peak Pyatigorsk with the ascent route (13). Photo by A. Runich. Fig. 37. The summit 1300 years of Bulgaria with its traverse route. Photo by A. Makushenko. Fig. 38. The summit Ak-Airy with its traverse route. Photo by A. Makushenko. Fig. 39. Sketch of the traverse of the Ak-Airy horseshoe. Part of the traverse from the beginning of the route to the saddle between the summits Pyatigorsk and 1300 years of Bulgaria (East Ak-Airy pass). Scale 1:5000. In the inset photos: a — view of the Ak-Airy horseshoe. Photo by B. Fedorov; b — on the dome of the Ak-Airy summit. Photo by A. Makushenko.

Peak 2900–3000–3010 "Severnye Zubki" Route "Traverse of peaks 2900, 3000, 3010 'Severnye Zubki' from southeast to northwest from Orlenok Pass" Cat. difficulty 2B (combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Kara-Jash ridge Section in KMGV - 2.1 E-mail: ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route "Traverse of peaks 2900, 3000, 3010 'Severnye Zubki' from southeast to northwest from Orlenok Pass" 2B cat. difficulty (combined) at the year-round alpine event Championship and primacy of NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" 2011 (class "First Ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic

Report

on the ascent to the summit "skala Goryacheva" 3138 m via the eastern ridge presumably 1B category, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Caucasus, Arkhyz area, Sofiyskoe valley, section 2.1 of the mountain summit route classifier.
2. Summit: "skala Goryacheva" (3138 m), via the eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference: 300 m Route length (technical part): 500 m. Average steepness of the technical part: 30 °.

Peak 3131 (Goryacheva South Rock) Route: via the south-eastern ridge Difficulty category: 2A–2B* (combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Irkis valley, Arkassara ridge, north-eastern spur (Gabul), Kara-Su tract Section in the KMGV — 2.1.

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to Peak 3131 (Goryacheva South Rock) as part of the climbing competition: "The third stage of the Cup of the North Travel Club 'Sauk-Pai' — 'Irkis-2015'" (class "First Ascents") in May 2015.

• Route: via the south-eastern ridge
• Difficulty category: (approximately) 2A–2B category (combined)

Ascent Log.

1. Category: Rock
2. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskoe valley, Orlenok valley
3. Sputnik (2650). Via southern ridge
4. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent
5. Height difference: 250 m Route length: 900 m. Rock section: 450 m
6. Pitons left on the route: rock 2 pcs.
7. Team's climbing hours: five up, four down
8. Leader: Kolokolnikov Konstantin Vladimirovich