- 5B cat. difficulty
- Route characteristics:
Height difference — 800 m. Length of sections 5–6 — 600 m. Average steepness (wall part) — 70°.
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Rock pitons hammered in: for belaying — 80, for creating ITO — 2
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Number of travel hours — 14
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Number of overnight stays — 1, satisfactory.
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KSP group in the Fann Mountains consisting of:
Mumdzhi Timur Memetovich — CMS, Ponomarev Valery Alekseevich — CMS
- Team coach: Mumdzhi T.M. Date of departure on the route — September 1, 1977. Date of return — September 3, 1977.
Sary-Shakh
Northeast wall
TABLE OF MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS
Brief explanations
To the table
Section R0–R1
Along a slope covered with porous ice, to the base of a vertical rocky bastion in the left part of the NE wall of Sary-Shakh. 50 m.
Section R1–R2
Up to the right along destroyed rocks 40 m, then up to the left to the base of a steep monolithic slab 40 m.
Section R2–R3
Up to the right along the right edge of the slab 40 m.
Section R3–R4
Then vertically up the wall to a vertically standing flake in the wall 30 m. From the flake:
- up to the right 20 m along steep inclined overhanging shelves, then
- up to the left to bypass a sheer section of the wall with a vertical cleft — a chimney in its left part (30 m).
Section R4–R5
And again up the dissected wall in the direction of the base of a large triangle of light yellow rocks ("red" triangle) (80 m).
Section R5–R6
Along a series of scree shelves traverse up to the left to the left part of the rocky triangle, to the base of a steep vertical cleft (60 m).
Section R6–R7
Up the cleft (80 m) to overhanging rocks.
Section R7–R8
Then up to the right along a slab under the overhanging rocks (4 m) and then down to the right (2–3 m) to a narrow shelf leading up to the right (25 m).
Section R8–R9
Then up the wall along a series of internal corners and small walls to the top of the "red" triangle. (80 m) control cairn.
Section R9–R10
Up a internal corner vertically (40 m), then up to the right (20 m) under sheer red-yellow rocks. Along them up to the left along a steep slab (45 m) and up to the right along a cleft-shelf to a large scree terrace covered with snow (10 m).
Here an overnight stay is possible. The eastern ridge of the summit is very close. From here, by traversing to the right (60–80 m), it is possible to reach the ridge, but this path is difficult and dangerous. Straight up (60 m) the path is blocked by a sheer rocky wall.
Section R10–R11
Up to the right through a destroyed sheer wall (3 m) to a snowy shelf (50 m), leading to a dissected internal corner filled with formed ice (5 m).
On a rocky islet at the base of the left part of a large snow-ice slab, a bivouac is organized. In a pile of rocks protecting from the wind, a platform for two people is laid out.
Section R11–R12
Up a narrow steep chimney filled with ice, up to the right (10 m) to the base of the left part of a large snow-ice slab. Along its left edge up to the left onto the eastern ridge of the summit (50 m).
The further path — along the route 4A cat. difficulty.
Section R12–R13
Along a gentle ridge (50 m) to the base of a sheer wall. This is the "key" section of the route 4A cat. difficulty.
Section R13–R14
Up to the right along the right part of the wall from right to left (40 m) to a large pre-summit shoulder.
Section R14–R15
Then along the ridge to the summit (150–200 m). Descent along the eastern ridge along the route 4A cat. difficulty.
Note: From the control cairn on the route (end of section R8–R9) by moving up to the left along steep slab-like rocks, it is possible to reach the eastern ridge earlier. But this path is dangerous, as it crosses from right to left a large steep concave rocky hollow ("trough"), representing a natural channel for rocks falling from above.
Sary-Shakh Route along the center of the left part of the northeast wall. R0–R15 — sections of the route according to the table. Control cairn on the route. Group overnight stay on the route.
Sary-Shakh Profile of the route along the center of the left part of the NE wall.